From EurekAlert!
Public Release: 14-Jan-2019
Upper-ocean warming is changing the global wave climate, making waves stronger
The energy in ocean waves has been increasing as a consequence of climate change, according to a new study
University of California – Santa Cruz
Increasing wave energy with climate change means more challenges for coastal risk and adaptation.

Sea level rise puts coastal areas at the forefront of the impacts of climate change, but new research shows they face other climate-related threats as well. In a study published January 14 in Nature Communications, researchers report that the energy of ocean waves has been growing globally, and they found a direct association between ocean warming and the increase in wave energy.
A wide range of long-term trends and projections carry the fingerprint of climate change, including rising sea levels, increasing global temperatures, and declining sea ice. Analyses of the global marine climate thus far have identified increases in wind speeds and wave heights in localized areas of the ocean in the high latitudes of both hemispheres. These increases have been larger for the most extreme values (e.g., winter waves) than for the mean conditions. However, a global signal of change and a correlation between the localized increases in wave heights and global warming had remained undetected.
The new study focused on the energy contained in ocean waves, which is transmitted from the wind and transformed into wave motion. This metric, called wave power, has been increasing in direct association with historical warming of the ocean surface. The upper ocean warming, measured as a rising trend in sea-surface temperatures, has influenced wind patterns globally, and this, in turn, is making ocean waves stronger.
“For the first time, we have identified a global signal of the effect of global warming in wave climate. In fact, wave power has increased globally by 0.4 percent per year since 1948, and this increase is correlated with the increasing sea-surface temperatures, both globally and by ocean regions,” said lead author Borja G. Reguero, a researcher in the Institute of Marine Sciences at the University of California, Santa Cruz.
Climate change is modifying the oceans in different ways, including changes in ocean-atmosphere circulation and water warming, according to coauthor Inigo J. Losada, director of research at the Environmental Hydraulics Institute at the University of Cantabria (IHCantabria), where the study was developed.
“This study shows that the global wave power can be a potentially valuable indicator of global warming, similarly to carbon dioxide concentration, the global sea level rise, or the global surface atmospheric temperature,” Losada said.
Understanding how the energy of ocean waves responds to oceanic warming has important implications for coastal communities, including anticipating impacts on infrastructure, coastal cities, and small island states. Ocean waves determine where people build infrastructure, such as ports and harbors, or require protection through coastal defenses such as breakwaters and levees. Indeed, wave action is one of the main drivers of coastal change and flooding, and as wave energy increases, its effects can become more profound. Sea level rise will further aggravate these effects by allowing more wave energy to reach shoreward.
While the study reveals a long-term trend of increasing wave energy, the effects of this increase are particularly apparent during the most energetic storm seasons, as occurred during the winter of 2013-14 in the North Atlantic, which impacted the west coast of Europe, or the devastating 2017 hurricane season in the Caribbean, which offered a harsh reminder of the destructive power and economic impacts of coastal storms.
The effects of climate change will be particularly noticeable at the coast, where humans and oceans meet, according to coauthor Fernando J. Méndez, associate professor at Universidad de Cantabria. “Our results indicate that risk analysis neglecting the changes in wave power and having sea level rise as the only driver may underestimate the consequences of climate change and result in insufficient or maladaptation,” he said.
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This research was supported by the Spanish Ministry of Science, Innovation and Universities (MCIUN).
they found a direct association between ocean warming and the increase in wave energy.
Nowhere in this four-alarm article do these learned savants make any attempt to explain to us rubes how it is exactly that warmer water makes more energetic waves. I suppose we’re allowed to guess that a tiny decrease in water viscosity allows a tiny increase in energy absorption under long-term winds, but some numbers would do wonders for their credibility.
Meanwhile, the surfboard industry can cheerfully promise enhanced experiences under these benefits of global warming. We’ll look for the new advertising blitz, coming soon to your coastal neighborhood!
When wind impacts the ocean it puts its energy into both increasing height and horizontal velocity. Geologists and coastal engineers have long been interested in this transfer of energy, as one example movement of sediment along shorelines. Old physics books say that cold air is denser so higher temperatures might allow higher wave heights, all other things being equal, which in the ocean never are. Then again colder, denser air should move more energy into waves. There is also the complication of swells from distances and origins past and the state of the sea surface from fetch, and surfactants for example, pour oil on the sea.
When did temperature first appear in such formulas? I would be more interested in changes in cold and warm front frequency. Density of air is important but so is that of the ocean.
Have not seen the paper but if they are so smart let them harvest the energy from waves. Old idea, easily fails. Doubt if the authors have been to sea much. At the same wind speed I always felt safer at higher temperatures but those were times of old history.
From the actual study
“The WP for an irregular sea state can be obtained from wave spectral parameters using the following expression60:
WP=ρg264π⋅Te⋅(Hs)2
where Te or T−10 is known as the energy period. This parameter can be estimated from the spectral shape and other parameters. ”
“For the same reasons, correctly modeling HS is critical for an accurate assessment of the global WP.”
“Information on wave heights collected using buoys and satellite altimetry do not provide continuous data over space and time, and so require numerical climate reconstructions in order to study historical climate states”
WHAT PROXIES CAN POSSIBLY BE USED TO RECONSTRUCT WAVE POWER FROM THE PAST? OH LOOK AT NEXT SENTENCE.
“We use numerical wave models, combined and validated with instrumental sources, to describe the global wave climate across different time periods”.
THEY DO NOT SAY HOW THE ARGO BUOYS VALIDATE THE WAVE MODELS EXCEPT BY STATISTICAL TESTS?
“Relating changes in SST to changes in WP
Correlations were computed between the global time series, by years and seasons, and spatially over each ocean sub-basin. The correlation was assessed through the Pearson product-moment correlation coefficient, r, which is a measure of the strength and direction of the linear relationship between two variables. The statistical significance was calculated through the Student’s t-test at the 95% confidence level.
Correlations were also calculated for the time series of the non-autocorrelated residuals. The non-autocorrelated residuals were obtained after adjusting the autoregressive moving-average models to each global and regional time series in order to avoid autocorrelation effects in the statistical analysis, and to identify the existence of non-contemporaneous relationships80. The non-autocorrelated residuals ignore the effects of trends and autoregression from the original time series and, thus represent the variability (at the temporal scale) of the original time series (yearly or seasonally). Given a time series, Xt, we fitted an ARMA(m, n) model by:
Xt−(∝1Xt−1+…∝mXt−m)−(θ1εt−1+…θnεt−n)=εt
where ∝m is the parameter of the autoregressive part of the model, θn is the parameter of the moving-average part of the model, and εt is the error term. Non-autocorrelation of the residuals was statistically tested with the Ljung–Box test.”
This whole study is 1 piece of statistical circular reasoning and parameterization. Using those bogus techniques, I can “prove” to you that the moon is made from green cheese.
Indeed. Hindcast data is for engineering. You don’t do science with it. Especially not THIS type of science.
ARGO buoys don’t measure wave heights. It takes special moored buoys with accelerometers. They are few and far between: http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/links/atlabuoy.shtml
Notice that there is exactly one (1) buoy on the whole Atlantic Coast of Africa which is one of the areas with the greatest increase in wave power according to the pape.
Why am I skeptical that anyone can say what the total “global wave energy” is right now, let alone back in 1946? Or any year in between?
And why are waves bad?
They can’t find any increase in wind speed, however they know for a fact that this increase in wind speed that they can’t find is creating bigger waves.
‘A wide range of long-term trends and projections carry the fingerprint of climate change, including rising sea levels, increasing global temperatures, and declining sea ice.’
Hello Josh? We need a cartoon on this – for the forensic experts coming up with a “hit” on the “fingerprint of climate change” – with “Mother Nature” on the monitor being identified as the culprit (as in REALITY).
Upper ocean warming is 100% attributable to the international oil sheen on the ocean… which is reducing wave count overall…
Let’s look at some first principle reasoning.
Wave power (wave height) is a combination of wind field speed and Reynolds number of the fluid as the wind field pushes across the fluid surface.
Reynolds number (Re) is inversely related to kinematic viscosity. Kinematic viscosity is the ratio of dynamic viscosity over density. Thus decreasing kinematic viscosity (or dynamic viscosity) will increase Re. Increasing Re will create higher waves for the same wind speed. However, the scientific/engineering question is, “Is the effect measurable within uncertainty for the temperature changes under question?”
Sea water (at 36 g/L salinity) dynamic viscosity is slightly temperature dependent. Empirical tables tells us that moving from from 29 deg C to 30 deg C (warming) decreases dynamic viscosity from 0.00088 Ns/m^2 to 0.00086 Ns/m^2, a ~2.5% decrease/deg C. But seawater density also decreases with temp, but not nearly as fast, about 0.5%/deg C. Thus kinematic viscosity decreases about 2%/deg C in the range of SST temps of interest (20-30 deg C).
So as SST rises also Re rises. A 1 deg C rise in SST will increase Re by about 2%. So at most, Re has increased less than 2%, as global SST rise has been slightly less than 1 deg C since 1948. With an uncertainty of probably at least 5% in WP change, I doubt a 2% change has any significance out of a noisy measurement.
(for NOAA’s global SST changes, see this chart:

Note: the scale on that chart is in Fahrenheit.)
Now compare this to the statement made by Dr. Borja G. Reguero:
“In fact, wave power has increased globally by 0.4 percent per year since 1948, and this increase is correlated with the increasing sea-surface temperatures, both globally and by ocean regions,…”
The energy from wind is what generates waves of course to make Wave Power (WP). But for every climate model simulation that projects a wind energy increase to 2050 or 2100, you can find one that predicts an oceanic winds decrease. Thus wind speed changes of the ocean under CC is very uncertain. So what does history tell us?
Historically we know the oceanic trade winds strengthen during periods of global cooling like 1940-1970, and winds weakened as from 1910-1940, a period when global surface air temps increased by about 0.4 deg C.
So over much of the period under study, 1948 to today, trade winds increased to about 1977 and diminished somewhat to 2000. Since 2000, trade winds have been strengthening, suggesting an on-going deep ocean cooling cycle (and that gave us the Pause). (Note: the direction of causality is difficult because trade winds and SST are coupled processes. That is more wind speed increases the more deep water overturning occurs, and deep water overturning brings colder water to the surface thus cooling the climate).
However every climatologist is in general agreement that weaker trade winds will accelerate climate change warming as oceanic surface-deepwater overturning is decreased. This will keep more warmth in the upper layer of the seas and thereby warming the surface air temps. So for a climateer to suggests ocean Wave Power will increase as ocean wind field speeds diminish under CC is simply spewing nonsense.
As far as storms go for generating waves, the IPCC reports are quite uncertain about stronger storms over the oceans. Most honest climatologists will tell you that as the temperature gradient between the tropics and the poles decrease under CC, then storm strength will lessen. The dishonest climatologist of course always predicts more intense storms under CC regardless of the physics under consideration.
So in those 70 years since 1948, this climateer is claiming wave power increased by 28%. I find that hugely unlikely due to an SST effect on Re, but merely a likely result of oceanic wind speed increase during the Pause since ~2000. And oceanic winds speeds (thus WP) will increase as the SST cooling proceeds to a return us to the Pause (hiatus) state in the coming years. And the observed increase in WP since 2000 will likely revert back to the mean under a warming/diminishing wind speed cycle sometime after 2030-2035.
And in any case, the climateers say that oceanic wind speeds will diminish under CC global warming as oceanic overturning decreases. So Borja G. Reguero’s claim on Wave Power and warming under CC is hogwash by both first principle and by even the climateers’ own dogma concerning CC effects on ocean winds.
As I said, a real pisser when your study contradicts dogma, even if you didn’t mean to do it.
Once again, warmer oceans are due to more visible radiation reaching the oceans, not LWIR between 13 and 18 microns. Simply look up what wavelengths warm water. The immediate surface of the oceans is cooler than the water 1mm lower. LWIR between 13 and 18 micron aids evaporation which cools the surface. Visible radiation is needed to warm the deeper oceans.
An Einstein Thought Experiment on Climate Change
https://co2islife.wordpress.com/2019/01/12/an-einstein-thought-experiment-on-climate-change/
Has anyone involved in this asked the surfers ?
They ride the waves
Bigger stronger waves are looked for & welcomed by surfers.
My son is a surfer..
his thought is no change in the past 15 years.Riding waves in East coast Australia and Bass strait..
tty and quite a few others have nailed this bafflegab research coupled with non-predictive waffle words.
Some of the bafflegab and hints to methods:
“We also find long-term correlations and statistical dependency with sea surface temperatures, globally and by ocean sub-basins, particularly between the tropical Atlantic temperatures and the wave power in high south latitudes, the most energetic region globally. Results indicate the upper-ocean warming, a consequence of anthropogenic global warming, is changing the global wave climate, making waves stronger.”
SST causes bigger meaner waves?
From NASA
A few millimeters of ocean surface causes bigger meaner waves?
Long term is since 1948?
“GWP and SST are analyzed based on correlation of the time series”
Time series correlation?
Either they are learning to use a dictionary, or they are garbling their research.
Research writing that leaves a big question mark regarding “non-autocorrelated residuals, information theory, long-term trends, and regression analysis”
Indeed?
Why!?
Hindcast!?
Ah, no.
The surface is a very shallow measurement.
The oceans are deep.
Conflating the two is incorrect.
Model results combined with infilling.
From UCAR:CLIMATE FORECAST SYSTEM REANALYSIS (CFSR)
This sounds like the Karl modified SST dataset to better match ship board and bucket measurements.
etc. etc. etc…
Stronger waves= More alternative energy! Yay!
I thought the heat was hiding at the BOTTOM of the sea.
I’m betting that there is a correlation between the increase in global wave energy and the increase in number of Argo autonomously diving/surfacing scientific instruments that have been deployed in the world’s oceans. Did the study’s researchers normalize the data for this?
I recall as a child what happened to the water surface wherever a submerged Rubber Ducky popped up.
Ocean waves primarily relate to Moon’s phases at short term; cyclonic activity at longer term. The cyclonic activity follow the natural variability in climate change. So far practically there is no global warming to impact ocean tides. Along the Indian coastal zone, the wave impact changed with the destruction of mangroves [act as protective wall to control tidal waves]. Also, the major cyclonic period in India has not changed on long term basis but some researchers to get sensation use a trucated data set of cyclic pattern and come up with sensational conclusions. Media gives hype to such studies. It appears the present study is one such.
Dr. S. Jeevananda Reddy
And here I thought waves were becoming more energetic because environmental laws have us spilling far less oil onto the sea surface, thus reducing the wave damping Marangoni effect.
I’ve got a great idea triggered by this drivel. AlGorebal Warming causes increased wave heights, these reach closer to the moon, transferring a slingshot effect to the satellite. We already know that the moon is receding from Earth, the additional angular momentum transferred through the slingshot effect will accelerate the Moon’s recession until it reaches escape velocity and voila! No moon. Global Warming affects planetary motion. If I can get the paper written up tonight, can one of you guys pal-review it for me, then we can get it published in EuCrazyAlert and NY Times, and the grants will come rolling in for sure. Split the cash 50/50. Who’s for it?
Yea! Surf’s up!
Will it help Salter’s duck?
Contrary to what Christian climate change deniers in the US appear to believe (not that I believe it is primarily anthropogenic), it seems that the Bible – and in particular, the Carpenter from Galilee – speaks to climate change. It also seems unlikely that it is going to get better. The “distress of nations in perplexity because of the roaring of the sea and the waves” of Luke 21:25 describes climate change well, with rising sea levels and weather extremes, although he may be referring to tsunamis, or both. Some megacryometeors may be a result of climate change, so it would not be a surprise if they became more frequent (cf. Revelation 16:21). Bloody red algae blooming seas, fires, floods and famines are also mentioned – earthquakes, too. Since big bang cosmology’s telling us that space and time(!) had a beginning fits so nicely with Genesis 1:1, I’m inclined to believe more of the Book as well, and it says we live in a dying world.
Given the brokenness of people (all of us) and the corruption in and the ineptitude of governments – first and third world, it doesn’t seem likely that climate change is fixable, even if it were all anthropogenic. And any global financial, geopolitical or geophysical disaster could effectively scrap any unenforceable political agreements (Trump is a geopolitical disaster). That does not mean that I am not in favor of greener solutions for energy and cleaner air!
Counterintuitively, perhaps, since many consider the Judeo-Christian God as a vindictive and angry judge, the most frequent mandate in the Bible is “Don’t be afraid” (or one of its several variations, e.g., “Fret not” and “Be anxious for nothing”). That would include not being anxious about politics, climate change and terrorism. Father is in control, like it or not. It would be better to like it. Also counterintuitive, perhaps: he is a loving – and lovable – Father.