New gadget finally kills the power vampires in my home

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I’m back home. Thanks to everyone who helped while I was offline with family medical issues. There are larger challenges ahead but for now things are back to near normal. Thanks to everyone who left kind words in the announcements thread – I feel like Jimmy Stewart at the end of “It’s a Wonderful Life”.

One thing I always like to do on trips south is to visit Fry’s electronics. There, I can take in the full measure of what’s new in the electronics world. While there, I picked up a gadget that solves an ongoing problem in my home. This is worth a read if you want to save money on your power bill.

While some of my incendiary foes like Joe Romm would like to make you believe that I’m anti-everything (his favorite word is “anti-science” when describing anyone who doesn’t agree with him), those of you who read WUWT know that I’m proactively energy efficient. For example, earlier this year I wrote about installing super efficient LED recessed lighting in my home. I’ve yet to see Joe Romm write a single positive thing about what he is doing personally to practice what he preaches.

I recently went through a home energy audit related to my recent Smartmeter installation (which is another story all by itself) and one of the things I decided I needed to do something about was the growing number of vampire power suckers in my home. As we added more technology, the number of always on power sucking wall-warts (120vAC to 12Vdc power transformers) increased.

Until now, there wasn’t any really practical way of dealing with them all, so I thought I’d share this solution since I’m sure many of you have similar problems with vampire power.

First some background. Here’s a video on vampire power from iGo:

Defining the problem:

Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory has a whole website dedicated to standby power issues and offers this assessment:

An individual product draws relatively little standby power (see here for examples) but a typical American home has forty products constantly drawing power. Together these amount to almost 10% of residential electricity use.

That 10% for me is an issue, because on hot summer days when we need a/c the most, that standby power baseline adds to our allowed PG&E baseline use, and when we go over it, our electricity costs escalate rapidly. PG&E actually punishes residences who consume over the allowed 445 kwh baseline in tiers, such that by the time you exceed 200% of baseline, your cost per kwh is now at 40 cents per kWh, which is outrageous.

My July 2010 power bill detail - note the tiered rates penalizing for power use. My neighbors all had similar bills.

Unfortunately, PG&E is a monopoly, and the Public Utilities Commission in California actually approved this outrageous rate hike for over baseline use while simultaneously dropping the allowed residential baseline from 512 kWh/month to 445 kWh/month in the last year. It was a major blunder, and this is why Smartmeters have been getting such a bad rap. PG&E chose the worst possible time to start, in May. Combine new rates, smartmeter swaps, and summer temperatures and you get a PR disaster and people up in arms.

Here in the Sacramento valley, we have temperatures here that reach 110 degrees at times, requiring a/c use. My only option now with these new rates is to reduce energy use. Now that’s something I don’t mind doing, I’ve been proactive at it, but I must say I feel discriminated against compared to Californians who live on the more temperature coast, because I already live in an energy star rated newer (4 years) home. They don’t have a/c issues like we do in the central valley.

So in a nutshell, I’m hosed by my location and its summer climate. That’s why my July 2010 energy bill was $620.16 (electric, plus gas, plus loads of taxes and other taxes – like “public purpose programs”, part of which supports climate change research in California) last month for 2052 kWh of use. If it were at regular baseline rate the bill would be half that. So anything I can do to get closer to baseline will be helpful.

Measuring the problem:

I went around my home with an LCD meter called the Kill-a-Watt EZ and determined that I have 3 areas of significant vampire power use that could benefit from a makeover.

These can be ordered from Amazon for about $30 plus shipping and are dirt simple to use. They can show you instantly how much standby power is being drawn on any appliance or power strip. There’s also a graphing version and a power strip version.

While I had all sorts of spots all over the house, I identified three areas where phantom power was concentrated and working to kill the vampires would be a worthwhile effort.

  • My computer workstation where I manage WUWT and research
  • My wife’s computer workstation with central printer
  • Our entertainment center and TV (#1 draw)

All of these had a collection of wall-warts for network switches, speakers, USB hubs, amplifiers, and accessories. The main devices like the TV, DVD player, DVD reorder, satellite box, all had “instant on” features and drew a fair amount of  load and most of these were on 24/7. Just looking at them in infrared shows where that power was going:

So not only are they wasting electricity, they are dumping waste heat into the house 24/7, adding load to the air conditioning.

According to this interactive page at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, I had all the vampire family members. My own readings from the Kill-a-Watt meter were right in line with these:

What was the biggest surprise to me was how much standby power my set-top satellite receiver boxes were drawing. I have a newer model and older model from DirecTV. The older model was drawing 31 watts in standby! Again right in line with what LBL says:

You can see the LBL master list of appliance tests for standby power draw here.

Finding a solution:

One way to solve phantom power draw is with power strips. I already use these to corral wall-warts, and when we go on trips I make it a point to reach behind the computer, under the desk, and behind the TV to shut these off.

However, doing that every night is a bit of a pain, and often forgotten in my house. So, the little suckers live through the night and during the day when we aren’t home.

So while a switched power strip *does* solve the problem in principle, it doesn’t in practice due to access. The strips are all behind and/or below something.

I had been toying with the idea of making some sort of remote switch for my power strips so I could easily turn them off when I shut down my PC, or turn off the TV and go to bed. Fortunately, I found a solution at Fry’s yesterday that did just that.

A way cool plug-in gadget that kills power vampires:

I was really happy to find this power strip gadget at Fry’s:

Apparently this was introduced at CES in 2008, but this is the first time I’ve seen it. It pays to advertise I suppose.

In case it isn’t obvious, this  is a power strip with a wireless remote switch. The switch can be handled like a TV remote or wall mounted, making it easy to remember to kill the vampire when you turn out the lights to leave the room.

The remote has a range of 60 feet and can be set for 8 different channels so you can have multiple outlet strips in the home. Here’s some features:

Here’s the manual (PDF)

Installation was quick and easy for me, I just daisy chained from my existing power strip and chose which devices to plug in to “always on” and which to put into the “switched” outlets. See below:

Of course I had to make two wall-wart exceptions: answering machine and my home weather station (which has a data logger and automatically updates a web page). Now that I have it working and can easily kill off most of my office vampires, I’m planning on buying two more for the other locations that have heavy wall wart populations.

I highly recommend this product. Amazon.com has the best deal on the base model at $34.99 and there are other models which you can see here. There are also UK/European and Australian power outlet versions I’ve found.

While we might disagree on climate change, saving money by reducing energy use is something I think we can all agree on.

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bill_m7
September 6, 2010 9:15 am

The off and standby energy usage of home electronics has been noticed by many governments around the world.
For the USA there is the EPA’s Energy Star program and in the EU it is covered in the implementation directive for Energy using Products EuP 2005/32/EC under the framework directive for Ecodesign 2009/125/EC.
The off and standby requirements for any device covered under EuP after 7 January 2010 (like those mentioned in this topic) in order to placed on the market in the EU:
• Off Mode not to exceed 1.00W
• Standby Mode not to exeed 1.00W or 2.00W if it provides a status/information or a reactivation function
• After 2013 the values above get divided in half, those items only with a reactivation function and no status/information display goes down to 0.5W.
Energy Star – http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=product_specs.pt_product_specs
EuP – http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CELEX:32008R1275:EN:NOT
Ecodesign – http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:285:0010:0035:en:PDF
Ecodesign Information – http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/policies/sustainable-business/ecodesign/
To close the loop there is a story waiting to be written on how environmental concerns get translated into product development/design, and ultimately what is the cost to the consumer.
How do products meet the ever changing product ecology requirements for items like RoHS, Reach, Ecodesign, EuP, EPEAT, WEEE, Battery, Packaging and other environmental voluntary and involuntary standards?
Can we keep restricting materials/chemicals and still develop products? With the same safety levels?
How can new businesses with innovated ideas get product to the market under the current product take regime?

EH
September 6, 2010 9:18 am

Looks something like our home, except our problem is a long, cold winter, with about 7 hours of daylight at the winter solstice. We have similar problem hubs AND provincial carbon tax, graded for basic and “over” use. Thanks for the tip, as we, too, look for and apply conservation measures with common sense.

Alexej Buergin
September 6, 2010 9:24 am

#
#
Inversesquare says:
September 6, 2010 at 8:39 am
Alexej Buergin says:
September 6, 2010 at 3:10 am
” inversesquare says:
September 6, 2010 at 1:06 am
The main advantage of this system is that nothing in the system is at a higher potential than 115 Volts relative to ground. This simple safety advantage has saved countless lives compared to 230 Volt systems.”
I think you’ll find that I didn’t say that….. It was someone else;)
Sorry for that; one day we will have easy formatting that even I can use
.

Jeroen
September 6, 2010 9:26 am

In Europe we don’t use a/c. When it is hot we just open the freezer.

Alexej Buergin
September 6, 2010 9:29 am

” Smokey says:
September 6, 2010 at 7:13 am
Brewster,
Ohm’s Law: Volts X Amps = Watts. So VA = Watts.”
The unit of Ohm’s law (R=U/I) are: Ohm=V/A; above is the definition of power. Ohm defines electrical resistance R.
(U is the symbol most often used for voltage, I is current)

JRR Canada
September 6, 2010 9:30 am

Welcome back, hope all is good. Seems the vampire you really need to slay is your electricity provider.

Editor
September 6, 2010 9:32 am

Alexej Buergin says:
September 6, 2010 at 3:00 am

” Les Francis says:
September 6, 2010 at 12:20 am
Putting two phases of 115v together does not give you 230 volts.”
Yes, it does, if the phase displacement is Pi/2 (=180°), which it is in the US. If you have 3-phase power as in Europe, displacement is Pi/3 (=120°), so 230V+230V=400V (one has to use the sine-functions, of course).

Mathematically, two phase power would be 90° apart and a synchronous motor could be designed to take two phase power and produce constant torque, just like how a 3 phase motor produces constant torque.
The US system is best described as 230V split-phase, so it’s easy to distribute 115V and 230V power around a house.
On problem with little single phase motors is vibration – the circulating pumps on forced hot water heating systems have a cushioned mount to absorb the pulsating nature of the torque they generate.
I’ve thought it would be interesting to design a residential system that supplied three phase power. Switching power supplies could take power off the top of the peaks, and non-switching supplies with full wave rectification would have a much easier job to regulate it to a DC voltage. Why keep such benefits to industrial users?
gallopingcamel says:
September 5, 2010 at 10:30 pm

High power appliances such as cookers, heat pumps and tumbler dryers run off 230 Volts (leg to anti-leg) and everything else off 115 Volts (leg to neutral) . The main advantage of this system is that nothing in the system is at a higher potential than 115 Volts relative to ground. This simple safety advantage has saved countless lives compared to 230 Volt systems.

I’ve heard it claimed that 230 VAC 50 hz shocks tend to clamp down the heart muscle and let it “restart” whereas 115 VAC 60 hz shocks tend to induce fibrillation. I think defibrillators provide a 400 volt, high resistance pulse. All this is a bit moot, as current, not voltage; along with current path determine the response by the heart and skin resistance varies hugely with conditions.
EEs are taught to keep one hand in a pocket when connecting injurious voltage sources. Current flow in a hand to hand shock is through the middle of the chest, not good!
My guess is that the lives saved by 230 VAC 50 hz have indeed not been counted. 🙂

September 6, 2010 10:03 am

Watts = E x I [voltage X current]. It is derived from Ohm’s Law:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw2.html

Richard P
September 6, 2010 10:13 am

Anthony,
I am glad to see you back and hope things are better for the medical issues your family is experiencing.
I work in the appliance industry as an electrical engineer. Personally in my house we use the most efficient appliances possible. However, I am realistic in those choices especially as it relates to the control of power. I do not cycle power on most of my expensive systems that are on standby. The reason being is that cycling power can cause problems and shorten the lifetime of the product. Most of these modern systems use switch mode power supplies, which are highly capacitive when seen from the wall outlet. The inrush current in many of these systems can be in the 80A to 100A range. This is stressful both internally and at what ever is being used to control the circuit.
If a circuit is designed to be in standby, cycling it will also cause a reduction in life. It is not uncommon for us to perform Accelerated Life Tests (ALT) by cycling power. Power cycling is the second greatest stressor in most applications next to temperature. Switching power supplies are very efficient and draw little power in standby.
What I fear is that we will adopt a one size fits all solution for energy in this country. You are already experiencing it in California. Your climate is significantly different than what this system was obviously optimized for. Where I live in Iowa, we use both heating and cooling. According to the PDO, some years we have little need for cooling others are significantly more. However, we always need heat in the winter, and since heat is heat whether it is generated by a wall wart or natural gas flame, the balance must be the same. What you save in electricity you will make up for in natural gas. So my point is, what works in northern Minnesota, will not work in south Texas, no matter how many laws are passed. Congress cannot void the laws of thermodynamics.
In my opinion the Smart Grid provides no value to the average homeowner. They will pay more for the meter, be charged more for energy because they cannot regulate their energy to fit the rules set by the energy company. The monopoly knows when people need energy, and will tailor the rules to keep their revenues flowing. I would not have a problem with this if they weren’t a government mandated monopoly. We cannot buy power from several different providers to give us the best deal, so these rates are set, and we eat the cost. The power company lowers costs by reducing the labor in reading the meters, and we pay higher prices according to their schedule.
Also, the last thing I want is the power company controlling the appliances in my house. Having some goof at a central control center 500 miles away setting my thermostat, refrigerator set point, or deep freezer state is unacceptable. I will not loose a thousand dollars of food so that they can maximize their profits by not spinning up a generator or buying more expensive power on the grid.
Much information can be derived from knowing energy consumption, especially if you can index it to time. If you believe that this system is not hackable, think again. Someone could easily predict when you are home by your power usage, either using it personally or selling it wholesale. While this information may be useful to a homeowner, it can be very detrimental if released and misused by someone malevolent. By knowing your power usage they can predict the number of good appliances available in your house. In addition they could dial back those appliances at will without you knowledge. I will not allow this to happen in my house, unfortunately most people will not have the technical understanding to prevent this from occurring.
We cannot keep people’s medical, credit card, or personal information secure, what makes you think that a power company, with no experience in secure data networks will be better at it?

Wansbeck
September 6, 2010 10:14 am

Ric Werme:
“EEs are taught to keep one hand in a pocket when connecting injurious voltage sources. Current flow in a hand to hand shock is through the middle of the chest, not good!”
Current flow from hand to foot is far more dangerous but fortunately electricians rarely have their bare feet in contact with a conductor.
I got my first radio controlled switch, one transmitter and two receivers, several years ago. This was more for laziness than economy; I could switch everything off with one push of a button rather than bending behind the computer then crawling around under the stairs to turn off the router, NAS, etc.
They were quite expensive and must never have sold as I returned to the same shop a couple of weeks later where I found a binful going cheap so I bought two more.
More recently British Gas gave my mother a remote switch and a meter. She had no use for them so I took them home and gave the meter a try.
I found that my base load was 270 Watt! There have been some big changes since then.

Steve in SC
September 6, 2010 10:18 am

Ric Werme says:
September 6, 2010 at 9:32 am
Alexej Buergin says:
September 6, 2010 at 3:00 am
” Les Francis says:
September 6, 2010 at 12:20 am
Putting two phases of 115v together does not give you 230 volts.”
Yes, it does, if the phase displacement is Pi/2 (=180°), which it is in the US. If you have 3-phase power as in Europe, displacement is Pi/3 (=120°), so 230V+230V=400V (one has to use the sine-functions, of course).
Mathematically, two phase power would be 90° apart and a synchronous motor could be designed to take two phase power and produce constant torque, just like how a 3 phase motor produces constant torque.
The US system is best described as 230V split-phase, so it’s easy to distribute 115V and 230V power around a house.
On problem with little single phase motors is vibration – the circulating pumps on forced hot water heating systems have a cushioned mount to absorb the pulsating nature of the torque they generate.
I’ve thought it would be interesting to design a residential system that supplied three phase power. Switching power supplies could take power off the top of the peaks, and non-switching supplies with full wave rectification would have a much easier job to regulate it to a DC voltage. Why keep such benefits to industrial users?

Whoaaaaaaa! 3 phase motors are not constant torque by any stretch of the imagination. The bulk of them are what is known as NEMA design B.
DC motors are very close to constant torque machines. The use of vector drives allows one to fool the motor into thinking it is a DC motor thus approximating a constant (actually just more even torque) torque device.
There is a system which can be used as 3 phase. 208/120 most 220 wired devices can be run on anything from 200 to 250V. 120V from phase to neutral works wonderfully as house current. You just have to pay attention to what you are doing when you install said system to avoid overloading one phase. But you would do that anyway.

jerrysg
September 6, 2010 10:45 am

Actually in American it would be “Here’s some of its features” since ‘it’s’ is not the possessive but is the contraction for ‘it is’. If you substitute ‘it is’ for its contraction in the sentence you will see that it makes no sense.
jorgekafkazar says:
September 5, 2010 at 10:48 pm
Jeff Alberts says: Here’s some features:
“In English that would be “Here are some features:” ;)”
In American, that would be “Here’s some of it’s features.”

Editor
September 6, 2010 10:51 am

Wansbeck says:
September 6, 2010 at 10:14 am

Ric Werme:
“EEs are taught to keep one hand in a pocket when connecting injurious voltage sources. Current flow in a hand to hand shock is through the middle of the chest, not good!”
Current flow from hand to foot is far more dangerous but fortunately electricians rarely have their bare feet in contact with a conductor.

When I was in college, we could afford both tuition and shoes. 🙂
On the other hand, err, foot, whenever I open up a computer or printer or other static-sensitive beast, I usually take my shoes off first to let any static drain away.

David S
September 6, 2010 11:07 am

Kill-a-watt?? Sounds like a nefarious plot by the warmers to do away with Anthony.
Just kidding. Actually I bought one a year ago.

September 6, 2010 11:21 am

inversesquare September 5, 2010 at 9:40 pm

Heh….. half the volts…. double the current….. thicker wires…. more transmission loss …. twice as much copper required…..

Bzzzzt!
Transmission loss is not a factor here; the last 100′ of distribution isn’t really a factor either, as the BIG appliances (A/C, electric heat, the electric stove) are run from the 240V circuit into the house … hams like myself have usually run a 240V circuit for the ‘big amp’ in the hamshack as well …
.

September 6, 2010 11:32 am

Ric Locke September 6, 2010 at 7:23 am

Modern electronics might come to the rescue. The fans in computers and electronic gear used to be shaded pole;

Not EVER that I recall in computers; I do recall a few shaded pole motors in some of the low-end Hewlett-Packard test equipment (notably their Nixie-tube readout counters), but nothing in the last 25 years in the way of a ‘PC’ …
.

Editor
September 6, 2010 11:33 am

Sounds great although a quick socket count here racked up 11 potential vampires, most of which we’re fairly good about turning off. I think we’ll just tighten up on the housekeeping a bit.
With a name like this you’d think Joe Romm would jump at the chance to own several ‘Kill-a-Watts’ (sorry couldn’t resist).

September 6, 2010 11:35 am

jerrysg says:
“If you substitute ‘it is’ for its contraction in the sentence you will see that it makes no sense.”
But it is correct grammar to say, “Shizzle my nizzle.” Which one makes less sense? ☺

Milwaukee Bob
September 6, 2010 11:35 am

A caution about turning power off to a flat screen (LCD) TV or other devices that have a high intensity bulb such as a projector – Turn the unit off the normal way (via the switch on the unit) first, let the fan cool down the bulb AND stop, then you can off ALL the power at the wall or breaker. If you don’t follow that procedure, you’ll more than make up for any power (or CO2) savings in the price of new bulbs. You also want to immediately turn the power BACK-ON if you get a momentary power outage that “automatically” turns the TV power off, for the same reason. It happened 7 times one Saturday here in C. FL during T. storm.
Killing the complete power to a computer to early can also wreak havoc with the OS if older than System 7, which seems to be better and the Mac OS I don’t think ever had that problem.

September 6, 2010 11:41 am

Ric Locke September 6, 2010 at 7:23
..
Motors that apparently run on single phase have internal means of creating the second phase. In old-fashioned DC motors it’s the commutator. “Brushless” DC motors are actually AC induction motors containing electronics that convert DC to polyphase AC. Small, cheap AC motors are “shaded pole”, in which a shorted winding produces the second phase.

Hall effect devices; they can be used to sense rotor position and ‘change’ the applied field via solid-state switching or simply create two separate ‘phases’ … Brushless DC motors do not not simply re-create a shaded pole motor effect … they have come a lot further along than you’re describing here … some also available with soft-start capability, they won’t simply sit there ‘stalled’ drawing current should a locker-rotor condition exist … we incorporated a set of these in a product just this last year; I did the verification/checkout in regards to tach output and fan-speed control via application of PWM (pulse width modulation) to said 48V DC powered fans …
.

Gail Combs
September 6, 2010 11:47 am

bill_m7 says:
September 6, 2010 at 9:15 am
….Can we keep restricting materials/chemicals and still develop products? With the same safety levels?
How can new businesses with innovated ideas get product to the market under the current product take regime?
_____________________________________
Governments are the biggest block to innovation. I was just reading about “Toshiba has developed a new class of micro size Nuclear Reactors that is designed to power individual apartment buildings or city blocks. The new reactor, which is only 20 feet by 6 feet…” http://www.nextenergynews.com/news1/next-energy-news-toshiba-micro-nuclear-12.17b.html
http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Toshiba%27s_Home_Nuclear_Fusion_Reactor
There is also the micro-reactor “On its home page, Hyperion gives additional details about these reactors and their safety. “Small enough to be transported on a ship, truck or train, Hyperion power modules are about the size of a “hot tub” — approximately 1.5 meters wide….. John Deal, the Hyperion CEO, says that such micro nuclear reactors should cost about $25 million each. In the U.S., where people spent more energy than in other parts of the world, such a reactor should be able to deliver power to only 10,000 households, for a cost of $2,500 per home.” http://www.zdnet.com/blog/emergingtech/a-micro-nuclear-reactor-in-your-garden/1089
At the cost of $2,500 per home, perhaps you should be talking to your neighbors, Anthony and ALL of us writing letters to our congressman…
Toshiba Seeks U.S. Approval for Micro Reactor for Rural Power
That micro-reactor could eventually have transportation possibilities depending on its size and weight. Nuclear powered ships and trains anyone???

Eric Anderson
September 6, 2010 11:53 am

2052 kWh of use in July? Holy cow, my electric use isn’t anywhere near that. I know you mentioned heavy A/C usage, but I’m guessing the real culprit is your 12-person jacuzzi and the home tanning bed! Don’t worry, your secret is safe with us. 🙂
I’ve thought of looking into a kill-a-watt for a long time, but so far hadn’t decided it was worth it yet, based on the cost and the minimal impact to my electric usage. Thanks for the tips though — I’ll have to check it out. Kind of have an urge to run out to Fry’s today anyway . . .
REPLY: No, it’s a/c, we have gas hot water. No jacuzzi, no waterbeds, but we do have an electric dryer…- A

September 6, 2010 11:54 am

John Innes September 6, 2010 at 7:02 am

When it came to setting TV standards, US and UK/European “experts” claimed that a 625/50 system would be incompatible with 60 Hz power, and a 525/60 incompatible with 50 Hz power, based on their own experience. The Japanese proved that if …

Wind the calendar back about 50 or 60 years –
At the moment you’re thinking in modern 21st century terms, not in light of what was available/used at the time (40’s): vacuum tube circuits, simple power supply circuits e.g. NO active voltage regulation in a consumer set (at best a choke input PS!) , and this means _no_ consideration of a 60 Hz ‘hum’ bar moving through the picture as a set ages just a little bit even …
You do realize, too, don’t you , that as time marched on, the sweep rate _was_ required to be changed from 60 Hz to 59.94 Hz here in the US (NTSC standard), which is why impulse noise in a TV picture always seemed to ‘climb’ up a TV/CRT screen …
.

September 6, 2010 12:01 pm

Mr Black September 6, 2010 at 1:47 am
Personally I resent having to count each watt of my power use because of government failure to allow the energy market to provide me with enough cheap power to use how I see fit. …

Hear! Hear!
Could not have said it better … there are better things to apply that ‘mental horsepower’ towards than ‘navel gazing’ at every Watt of energy expended …
The idiom “Penny wise and pound foolish” comes to mind.
.

Billy Liar
September 6, 2010 12:03 pm

Smokey says:
September 6, 2010 at 7:13 am
Brewster,
Ohm’s Law: Volts X Amps = Watts. So VA = Watts.

Brewster, are you gonna tell Smokey he doesn’t understand AC (alternating current)?