El Nino, Sea Level, and Kelvin Waves: Correcting Media Errors

From the Cliff Mass Weather Blog

Cliff Mass

The media recently reported on oceanic Kelvin waves and their connection to El Nino. See samples below.    

Some of the information is correct; some is problematic or exaggerated (samples below).

So, what are the actual facts, and why should you care?  

The U.S. has satellites in orbit that can monitor the height of sea level around the world. 

Here is the sea level elevation on April 1, before the current El Nino really got going.  

I am showing the difference from normal (the anomaly in meters), with red being higher and blue being lower than normal.   Things were pretty normal (yellows and light blue) at this time

Compare this to the situation two days ago (below).   Big rise in sea level near the equator and along the Mexican coast, with some enhancement along the Southern California coast.

Not much sea level enhancement for Northwest coastal waters (sorry, Seattle Times climate lab!)

Let’s look at two West Coast sites.

At San Diego, the observed sea-level heights (red lines) are substantially higher than expected without El Nino (blue line), by roughly one foot.    This contributes to localized flooding for Southern California.

In contrast, there is virtually no enhancement along the Washington coast at Westport.  This will continue to be the case through the winter. 

So what are these Kelvin Waves that the media are headlining?  (and often explaining them wrong).

They are an essential part of the El Nino phenomenon.  

During normal (non-El Niño or La Niña) situations, the easterly (from the east) trade winds in the tropics push warm tropical waters to the west, resulting in higher-than-normal sea level to the west (see below; red is higher than normal sea level).  The situation last winter is shown below.

Then the easterly trade winds weakened, and warm water surged east as a Kelvin Wave during this summer (see the situation in early September).  Higher than normal sea level along the equator and near the west coast of South America (dark red).

You can watch an animation of this happening below (click on the arrow).  Pretty neat!

https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwK9GGIWRE5GWxyp9Z-pcYW_EvL-0FZ7b9rqbHjmGnnWHfW9B3t3oOrQ9XcCgR0gz9HLMW4QrOUD18pAP_wGzpj3LnuWIOHg3zhz2jqNyjxYRSzRDMNdofNseGAv-1KjPC9JsE&origin=cliffmass.blogspot.com

The eastward movement of the warm water occurred in a series of distinct pulses of deepening warm water (Kelvin Waves),  with the figure below showing a cross section through one of the waves (the blue color is the warm water).

Such Kelvin waves are trapped near the equator by the Coriolis force resulting from the rotation of the Earth.

When the wave hits the west coasts of South and North America, the wave pushes poleward along the coasts, resulting in increased sea-level elevation in the coastal regions north and south of the equator.


You can see the enhanced sea level elevation along the West Coast of North America below (red is higher than normal sea level).

If you were in one of my classes, I would show a figure such as below.  

An elevated water column is centered on the equator, producing a pressure force to the north and south.  This pressure force is balanced by the Coriolis force (due to the rotation of the Earth); this balance keeps the surge in water intact.   This balance only works for water surging to the east.

That is why Kelvin waves only move in one direction (east).

Don’t worry if this is a bit too much detail:  providing it for the weather nerds 😀

There is no “sloshing” back to the west when the elevated warm water hits the west coasts of North and South.  

So this is not like sloshing in a bathtub, as claimed by some media.

In any case, we are in the middle of a very strong El Nino and strong Kelvin wave pulses of warmer water towards the east are expected.

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23 Comments
Ron Long
October 19, 2026 6:13 am

Good report about El Nino and Kelvin Waves. As someone living in the path of El Nino, in Mendoza, Argentina, I can verify that this Super El Nino is really having a dramatic effect on the weather. The Andes have record snow, the pass to Chile was closed a record number of days (it’s even closed today due to snow and wind) and we are five times normal October rainfall, and the month is only 2/3 over. Snow records with a warm water El Nino event? Yes, because the Andes are so high (in Mendoza Province 55 named peaks 20,000 feet or higher), but later this equates to destructive thunderstorms and hail events. I used to say that El Nino was a good boy and La Nina is a bad girl, but a Super El Nino is a bad boy!

antigtiff
October 19, 2026 6:26 am

The original survey for the Panama Canal revealed the Pacific to be about 6 inches higher than the Atlantic. Maybe they still keep records.

1saveenergy
October 19, 2026 7:30 am

Before the Panama Isthmus was formed in the Pliocene (2.76–2.54 Ma), all that hot water swept into the Atlantic via ‘the Central American Seaway’, then north through the Arctic, & back into the North Pacific, preventing sea ice & glaciation; all driven by the Coriolis effect.
The closure of the seaway led to an increased poleward salt and heat transport, which strengthened the North Atlantic thermohaline circulation 2.95–2.82 Ma. That in turn increased the moisture supply to Arctic latitudes, which contributed to both Arctic continental glaciation and sea ice formation. With the aid of the orbitally-paced extension of Gelasian ice sheets, this eventually led to the Quaternary ice age.

Reply to  1saveenergy
October 19, 2026 1:53 pm

Check your sources, everyone knows that climate only changes because of the Magic Gas™.

J Boles
October 19, 2026 7:35 am

That is a heck of a good trick, to measure sea level on a round globe from a satellite moving thousands of mph and is 200 miles in the sky. Seems impossible but then what do I know?

John Hultquist
Reply to  J Boles
October 19, 2026 8:06 am

Sea level? See wikipedia: Sentinel-6_Michael_Freilich
elevation: 1,336 km (830 mi)
Now do the Moon.

SxyxS
Reply to  J Boles
October 19, 2026 8:13 am

There is a reason why the tolerance for satellite measurement is roughly 2 times higher than
(3 mm) than the real annual sea level rise.

And with such a joke of a ratio you can not really measure any increase, but fabricate every increase you want.

Reply to  SxyxS
October 19, 2026 9:22 am

I recall it being 3.4cm when I read the paper.

SxyxS
Reply to  Lil-Mike
October 19, 2026 10:14 am

3.4 cm what?
Rise or Tolerance?

I never came across this number,
but it can not be Rise as even google has only 15 -25 cm rise since 1900.

And I can not imagine them to be so honest to admit (a very plausible for a reflecting, moving odd surface measured from 300 miles)3.4 cm as margin of error.
As such a margin is magnitudes bigger than any increase in sea level rise and therefore useless for the purpose.

PS
A commonwealth expert group predicted 1989 with 90% certainty a 1-4 meter sea level rise(once again a crazy gap) by 2030.
(We only have 1-4 meter to go the next 3 years – or maybe trying to use metrics confused the Brits 🙂 )
With such a level of increase 3.4 cm tolerance may be somewhat useful.

Sparta Nova 4
Reply to  Lil-Mike
October 19, 2026 1:29 pm

I recall reading reports… but recall it as either 3.0 cm or 1.5 cm depending on the report and the assumptions.

Reply to  J Boles
October 19, 2026 9:28 am

They measure as the satellite passes over land, then sea. So they have a ‘relative measurement’ not an absolute measurement. BUT, and this is a big but. The change in atmosphere affects the speed of radio waves slightly. The radar beam is not a single point, or even a small point. The measurement is not of a flat surface, but a variable surface ideally of regular sine waves, another BUT, but the tops can be blown off of these making for an irregular wave.

Its (to me) comical that all the rise in sea level was found to be distant from shore based tide measurement stations. Do some basic scrubbing of the data people, especially with a new measurement method.

John Hultquist
October 19, 2026 7:52 am

It takes a lot of Earth Science knowledge to unpack this topic, as Prof. Mass has done. Journalists may have an introductory class with El Niño covered in one or two 50 minute class periods. Just the concept of “a wave” is not simple, and when “Kelvin” gets involved, he messes with your mind.

Curious George
October 19, 2026 8:02 am

What is the speed of Kelvin waves?

Sweet Old Bob
Reply to  Curious George
October 19, 2026 10:12 am
Sweet Old Bob
Reply to  Sweet Old Bob
October 19, 2026 10:18 am

the surface waves are fast: in the deep ocean, about 200 m/sec[3] (similar to a tsunami or passenger jet), much slower in the shallow water;
the internal ocean waves carrying the heat have speed of 1–3 m/sec[13] (similar to a walking or running human). For example, the equatorial internal waves cross the Pacific ocean in about two months.[3]

SxyxS
Reply to  Curious George
October 19, 2026 10:15 am

1040 mph

Reply to  SxyxS
October 19, 2026 11:58 am

Isn’t that the speed of rotation of the earth? Apologies if that’s an obvious thing. I’m an interested bystander in things way above my pay (Knowledge) grade.

Reply to  SteveT
October 19, 2026 12:21 pm

Sxyxs is showing his sense of humor…it’s more like 2 months to cross the Pacific like SOB says above….depending on how much winds assist or hinder the slight 8 inch (20 cm) bulge…which is far less than the usual wave swell height anyway…so really mostly media clicksturbation…

SxyxS
Reply to  SteveT
October 19, 2026 2:30 pm

I was commenting from an Alien point of view.

But I do not think it is an obvious thing of the common knowledge kind(we seem to have an identical “pay grade”)

SxyxS
October 19, 2026 8:08 am

And my inner Dunning-Kruger always assumed that the coriolis force would push the water away all alongside the equator and therefore result in lower sea levels there – especially as there should be some additional coriolis “assistance” by the magnetic field divide.
But it seems that the force is not strong enough for liquids before they hit the shore.

October 19, 2026 9:39 am

With the discussion about El Nino and the fact that already warmed water being “sloshed” eastward, does this really warm the earth as temperature trends would lead one to believe? Looking at UAH which measures the temperature of oxygen in the atmosphere one can see the El Nino “steps” in the temperature trend. Does this temperature increase in the atmosphere during El Nino never disappear in GMST?

One would think that as the water is spread over a larger area, that cooling would increase thereby lowering the sea surface temperature (SST). That should then reduce atmospheric temperature above the El Nino. This doesn’t appear to be the case, the steps appear to remain resulting a constantly rising temperature trend.

I do not track SST’s in other databases. Do they follow the same trend where raised temperatures due to El Nino never disappear?

October 19, 2026 1:05 pm

Cliff, I have some questions: I’m assuming that the change in sea level in the absence of easterly Trade Winds is a result of thermosteric expansion of the water. Why does the elongated ‘tongue’ of warm water appear to grow from east to west, and is warmest on the east, when the origin of the Kelvin wave is apparently in the waters around Indonesia to the west? Why does the first pre-El Nino warm water show up along the west coast of South America, south of the Equator? Why are there disconnected blobs of warm water (Kelvin Wave pulses?) turning north and then hooking left, starting near the Galapagos Islands? Why aren’t there similar blobs south of the Equator? Why are the waters along the coast of North and South America, and especially in the Gulf of California, much warmer than the water originating in the region of Indonesia? It would appear to me that is it solar heating that is responsible for the warm water along the coasts rather than a Kelvin Wave moving a thick wedge of warm Indonesian water. Clearly, the cessation of up-welling along the South American coast inhibits mixing, which prevents cooling of the water. However, why does the rest of the Pacific Basin continue to be cooled when the Thermocline prevents mixing of cold abyssal water with surface water?

SxyxS
Reply to  Clyde Spencer
October 19, 2026 2:52 pm

You’re a good observer
and though I won’t be of much help
I think the warmer Gulf of California should be solar related(as you answered partially) – mostly shallow water, isolated, limited in size and massive coastline that absorbs heat fast .
And it has probably less exposure to cooling wind than the wave on the Ocean.