How You Get There

Guest Post by Willis Eschenbach

Today seemed to be about modes of transportation—cars and boats and trains. We rolled out early to go to Bath, and met up with a quintessential charming publican, Nick Luke, in a village near Bath with the lovely British name of Limpley Stoke. He suggested a slight detour to see the local gap in the hills where the river, the aqueduct, and the railroad all pass through at one point. So we parked off of the main road, and walked down this path:

canal and rail 1I mean … who would not want to walk a path like that, so full of green and light, and so replete with unspoken promises about the future?

As we walked, Nick mentioned that the railway ran alongside the path … and in a rare display of timing, just about then, an actual steam train came flying by. I fear I was a bit slow on the draw with the camera, or more likely, I was at exactly the right speed and the train was fast … in any case, here’s the steam locomotive on a roll …

canal and rail 2

Nick told us that the locomotive was one of the very few new steam locomotives built in the last few decades. It is a copy of the “Tornado”, which was a famous locomotive back in the days of steam. It whirled on past, easily pulling a string of passenger cars. We could see in the windows, the folks were sitting and having lunch at lovely tables, with crystal service … it was an entrancing vision of a bygone time, when people rode the steam train from London to their holiday in the town of Bath.

We walked on further, and we came to an aqueduct which is part of the extensive network of canals which were originally built to carry coal from the mines to where it was needed. There we encountered several of a species of boat that I’d never actually seen, the British canal boat. For some reason I’ve been re-reading “Moby Dick” lately, first time since high school. I hadn’t realized how funny Melville is. Anyhow, at one point he says:

You may have seen many a quaint craft in your day, for aught I know;—square-toed luggers; mountainous Japanese junks; butter-box galliots, and what not; but take my word for it, you never saw such a rare old craft as this.

That’s just how I felt when I saw the canal barges. Using the famous “Imperial” system of measurements, by my estimate they’re about a mile long and a yard wide. Here’s one of the several that we saw coming out of the Dundas Aqueduct that carries the canal across the Avon river below:

canal and rail 3

After the end of the coal mining era, many of the canals fell into disrepair. But now, there has been a resurgence in traffic, not commercial, but recreational travelers. The boats are about as skinny as you could make them, and for a very good reason … so are the canals. For example, off of the bit of water shown above, another canal takes off that looks like this:

canal and rail 4

The sign on the left identifies it as the “Somerset Coal Canal”, which was built in 1801, and which closed in 1898. I asked Nick if coal was still mined in the UK. He said the deep mines were uneconomical, but the open-pit mine near the Drax power plant was still producing. I had to laugh at that, because as Nick already knew, after years of successful operation and with lots of coal still in the ground, the Drax power plant is currently being converted to run on wood chips … and because there are not many forests left in the UK these days, the wood chips are to be imported from the US. Climate madness at its most inane, or perhaps most insane.

So somewhat sadly, we left the lovely confluence of river and rails and canal, and followed Nick into Bath. He stopped on a hill above the town and explained the layout. The church in Bath is not a cathedral, he said. From his explanation, s “cathedral” is the “seat” of a Bishop. But of course, this being England, the church in Bath is the seat of a Bishop … but it’s not a cathedral. It’s down on the lower left. Above it there are some trees, then a row of buildings called the “Royal Crescent”. In the dappled sunshine it was picture-perfect.

bath from above

Now, as near as I can figure out, Bath has always been a party town. It’s the only thermal hot springs on the island, so it was a big hit with the Romans. Then in Georgian times, some people built a bunch of what we would now call “spec” houses, houses built to sell but with no specific owner in mind. This was a success, and from local accounts, it became the place for the rakes to come from London to have a good time and gamble and chase the Georgian lovelies round the antechamber. Here’s the “Royal Crescent”, built in the early 1800’s.

royal crescent bath

The Royal Crescent adjoins the town commons … and as a result, the property owners needed to be separated from the plebeians. So in the best pre-Druidic fashion, they built their own “henge” to keep out the polloi, which survives to this day as seen below. Plebs to the left, property owners to the right, gotta keep the old traditions alive …

the royal crescent henge

Nick also pointed out how the masonry was made to look so good back in the Georgian times. The blocks of stone are chamfered from front to back on the bases. Then they are set in mortar with the front edges of the blocks very tightly aligned, with only a few mm of space between them. They have gaps in the back, but you can’t see them. Of course, regarding the backs of the houses they didn’t bother with that, they just piled up most any old stones and mortared them together. But in the front they had to keep up appearances … not much different from LA today, where how you look is more important than what’s actually going on behind your eyeballs. Plus ça whatever.

Nowadays, as in the past, Bath is still a holiday town, with over a million visitors a year. I was very glad that we were not there during the tourist season. The Roman baths are still there, but built over and rebuilt over the centuries. Here’s how they looked today:

roman bath

One great and unending joy of this life is that there is always more to learn. In the Roman Baths I learned about “curse tablets”. These are from Roman times. They are thin sheets of lead with a curse on someone written on them, and then they were rolled up and (in this case) thrown into the bath. Mostly, the curse tablets found in the bath contain a curse on whoever it was who stole someone’s clothes or shoes when they were in the bath a couple thousand years ago … plus ça change, plus ça the same dang thing, as they say …

Nick took us to his pub, The Old Green Tree, which might be the oldest pub in town, and might be the smallest pub in town, depending on who you’re asking. It looks like this, starring my daughter giving her best Vanna White spokesmodel imitation …

the old green tree

It is truly old, truly small, and truly a “local”, hardly a tourist in sight. I drank some “Pitchfork” ale, and a variety of other local brews. Say what you will, but when it comes to beer, it’s hard to beat a local British beer or ale in a local British pub. Drank some cider too, it was like Strongbow only tastier.

What else did we see in Bath? Well … tourists. Oh, and a solar-powered garbage can, can’t forget that. Like the canal boats, I’d never seen one of these either, and but for the evidence below you might think I was having you on … but here is the Big Belly solar garbage can in all its refulgent splendor:

big belly solar garbage can

From Bath, we rolled on to Bristol. Tomorrow we decamp for Liverpool, and from there up to the Lake District. Advice on inexpensive places to stay in the Lake District would be much appreciated.

Finally, in the matter of appreciation, my great thanks to Nick Luck for his hospitality, his information, his willingness to answer every and all of our sometimes foolish questions, for his pub, and for his free and easy laugh. If you’re in Bath, go look Nick up at the Green Tree, you’ll find a good man and a good place to bend an elbow.

The journey continues tomorrow, and as the title implies, for me it’s not the journey’s end that’s important—it’s how you get there. So my wish for all of you is that each of your journeys may be as full of sunshine and learning and laughter as mine was today.

Onwards, ever onwards …

w.

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beng
September 8, 2013 9:26 am

***
catweazle666 says:
September 7, 2013 at 4:27 pm
The locomotive you saw is actually the newly built Arthur Peppercorn designed A1 Pacific “Tornado”, Willis, a refreshing change from the much better known Sir Nigel Gresley designed Pacifics such as the World speed record holding A4 “Mallard”.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LNER_Peppercorn_Class_A1
A lovely machine, she regularly passes within 100 yards of my house.

***
Great read & seeing a well-designed steam locomotive built to modern standards. Rode the rebuilt Norfolk & Western J611 back in the 1990’s:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk_and_Western_611

Mardler
September 8, 2013 9:33 am

Willis, if you can get to Scotland, go on the Jacobite railway (hopefully steam hauled) from Fort William to Mallaig. The scenery is stunning; keep an eye out for the Glenfinnan Viaduct (aka Harry Potter’s).
Also, try to visit the Western Isles and the Corryvreckan – the world’s third largest whirlpool. Great B&B at Seil Island here:- http://www.innish.com/ . At the southern tip of Seil Island is Ellenabeich and the Slate Islands Heritage Centre with the excellent Oyster Bar nearby (great ale and sea food).
Of course, Scotland is also known for that other amber nectar….
If you return south down the eastern side of the country try to get to York (great city) and Norwich (first part pedestrianised city in Europe, capital of Norfolk and the waterways system known as The Norfolk Broads) with its equally superb cathedral.
BTW, ignore the comment above about the Highland clearances: they happened and were appalling.

September 8, 2013 10:04 am

Having been a student in Bath I was once quite an expert on its city-centre pubs. Memory’s fading a bit, but the smallest pub was either The Volunteer Rifleman’s Arms or The Coeur de Lion (both in the Passages, quite close to The Old Green Tree). The Old Green Tree was one of our haunts until we were asked to leave after one of our group was accused of barracking the landlord’s wife. After 30-odd years I expect it’s safe to venture back. Sadly, no chance of revisiting The Beehive, another tiny pub that used to be up the hill in Lansdown Road, purveyor of scrumpy (rough cider, unfiltered so quite cloudy) at the then bargain price of 50p/pint, but which is long gone.

London247
September 8, 2013 10:06 am

in response to Gary Pearse
other real English place names
Tiddlywink, Tollard Royal, Sixpenny Handley ( Wiltshire) Haselbury Plucknett, Ryme Intrinseca ( Somerset) Toller Porcurm, Piddletrenthide ( Dorset) , Broadwoodwidger ( Devon) Polyphant and Indian Queens ( Cornwall)

London247
September 8, 2013 10:07 am

and not forgetting Cockadilly in Gloucestrshire

Hari Seldon
September 8, 2013 10:19 am

Wills,
If you want to see the Lake District, don’t just drive through it. The best way to see it is by air and the best way to go by air is by gyrocopter. There is an airfield to the north of the actual lakes called Kirkbride. Phone Chris on 07796 955805 and he will fly you around the lakes for 1 hr for a measly £120. Chris is a real gent and will fall over trying to accommodate you. You can see his website at http://www.chrisjonesgyroplanes.com/
I have flown with Chris several times and he is a gentleman of the old school.
I have been through over and under and in the lakes and flying over Skiddaw near Keswick is a memory you will NEVER forget.

richardscourtney
September 8, 2013 10:24 am

London247:
You mention Indian Queens here in Cornwall.
Willis being an American he may be interested that local legend says Indian Queens is named after Pocahontas whom the locals believe resided there with her husband for some time. The legend is probably not true but is firmly believed by many locals and so Pocahontas Crescent in the town is named after her.
Pocahontas was a Powhatan native American lady who saved the life of Englishman John Smith then married John Rolfe who returned to England with her where she became a famous figure in London social life.
Richard

Hari Seldon
September 8, 2013 10:26 am

A little taster

Questing Vole
September 8, 2013 10:48 am

For the record, there are two deep – that is, underground – coal mines still operating within 20 miles of the Drax power station. There have been surface mines in the neighbourhood too, (mostly on former underground mine sites) but I don’t think any are active at present. That said, Drax and the other coal-fired power stations nearby take surface mined coal from other parts of UK, such as north-east England and central Scotland, as well as imports.
Inevitably, any mention of the UK coal industry raises the usual spectres of closures under Wilson, Thatcher, etc. But they were amateurs compared to the three Secretaries of State for Energy and Climate Change, starting with Ed Miliband in 2008. These have cut to the chase by carbon-taxing coal out of the mix by 2018 at the latest, with the inevitable effect on the future viability of the remaining mines, underground and open air.
All of these politicians have, of course, had considerable help from the fossil fools in the mining unions…

TonyK
September 8, 2013 11:17 am

Mardler says:
September 8, 2013 at 9:33 am
We did both the Jacobite and Corryvreckan earlier this summer, but you generally have to book well in advance for both, and the whirlpool is obviously tide-dependent and only worth visiting on certain days. Well worth doing though!

Philip Mulholland
September 8, 2013 12:12 pm

North from Bath to Liverpool and Beyond.
Hi Willis,
The following are some suggestions for your itinerary as you head north.
At Bristol you are near the mouth of the River Avon (Afon is the Welsh word meaning river, so Bristol is on the banks of the River River). At Portishead the Avon joins the estuary of the River Severn famous for its tidal bore.
The River Severn is the longest river in the United Kingdom, it rises in the Cambrian Mountains of Central Wales and first flows north to reach the English county of Shropshire. At Shrewsbury its former course to the north to the Irish Sea is blocked by the terminal glacial moraines located around Ellesmere, formed at the southern limit of the ancient Irish Sea ice-field, instead the river turns south through the Iron Bridge Gorge, following a route cut by the glacial melt-waters as they flowed south from Shropshire at the end of the Ice age. The river’s course passes by Worcester and the Vale of Evesham, famous for its apples, to reach its modern southern estuary.
The main modern road route north, the M5, misses many tourist spots. In the east is Stratford-upon-Avon (another afon), Shakespeare’s birthplace, while in the west are the Malvern Hills and the spa town of Malvern. In the Malvern Hills a wild apricot Golden Glow was discovered growing on the slopes of the Malvern Hills, Worcestershire. Apricots are believed to originate from China and were widely distributed in the ancient world and the possibility that these Malvern apricots date back to an introduction to Britannia in Roman times is pure speculation on my part!
Ironbridge is a must see. This bridge was built by craftsmen who were skilled at working with wood and stone and so the bridge is designed in the traditional way but constructed with iron and not wood.
North from Ironbridge head for Chester the county city of Cheshire located at the tidal limit of the River Dee. Chester is an ancient town with a medieval wall and superb examples of Tudor timber frame buildings. Chester has Roman origins, its name derives from the Latin word castrum (the fortified camp). In Roman times it was the main base for the XXth legion
In Roman times Chester provide access to the Irish Sea 20 miles to the north via the wide tidal Dee estuary, now heavily silted up with tidal flats alongside the Wirral peninsula and the reclaimed marshes of Sealand. The question as to whether the Romans maintained a military presence on the east coast of Ireland is moot (think Guantanamo Bay for a possible modern superpower example). What is clear historical record however is that by Viking times Dublin (Dubh-linn or Black Pool) was the premier Viking City of the Irish Sea region.
On expulsion from Dublin the Vikings settled on the Wirral where many villages have the suffix “by” in their name e.g Irby, Pensby, Greasby. The by is a city in modern Danish, but here the word refers to a farmstead or small village, the word “by” is found in terms such as “Highways and Byways”, the By-laws (the village laws) and also By-elections.
By modern times ships where no longer able to easily sail to Ireland from Chester and the Port of Parkgate was briefly developed with its Old Quay and New Quay. Admiral Nelson’s mistress Lady Hamilton was born in the nearby Wirral village of Ness. Ness means headland or nose and has the same etymological roots as the French word Nez as found in Le Gris Nez, the Chalk cliff headland near Calais on the north coast of France.
To visit Parkgate now none of this maritime activity seems possible as the vast coastal marsh extends out across the Dee estuary from the old sandstone seawall that lines the Parade. However even in the 1920s Parkgate had a shrimp fishery and the navigable tide reached the wall every day. Now only the extreme equinoctial spring tides with their 10 metre range, flood the marshland because the mud has accreted by up to 3 metres in 90 years.
With the silting of the Dee estuary Commerce turned its attention to developing the small Lancashire port of Liverpool on the east bank of the Mersey estuary. The key to the development of Liverpool was the creation of the dredged Crosby Channel through the Great Burbo Bank, lined by the revetments and marked by the Bar Lightship in Liverpool Bay, (Bar, or Aber, refers to the mouth of a river as in Barmouth or as in Aberystwyth).
The Northwest region is the most densely populated area of the British Isles. Its two major cities, Liverpool and Manchester have always been rivals. Liverpool as the major port city of Lancashire controlled the commerce to such an extent that Manchester funded and built the Manchester Ship Canal on the southern side of the Mersey, through Cheshire (thereby avoiding Lancashire) to reach the navigable Mersey tidewater at East Ham near Ellesmere Port. The canal was built with locks identical in size as those of the St Lawrence Seaway, allowing ships to sail from Manchester to Port Duluth, Minnesota at the head of Lake Superior.
You will have many things to do in Liverpool. A must is to take the Ferry across the Mersey to Birkenhead. Birkenhead Park opened in 1847 and is the model for Central Park in New York. American landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted incorporated many of the features he observed into his design for New York’s Central Park. He wrote about the strong influence of Birkenhead Park in his book Walks and Talks of an American Farmer in England.
Overlooking Birkenhead is Bidston Observatory on Bidston Hill a local landmark and weather station of historic importance.
After Liverpool, the Lake District has a huge “to do list”, but do visit Brockhole, the Visitor Centre on the banks of Windermere for ideas. Finally returning to my Roman Theme, High Street the Roman Road from Ambleside to Penrith takes the ridgeway route north avoiding the forested valleys of Cumbria and rising to an elevation of over 2,500 feet. A high level route, now used only by walkers, that bears witness to a different climate in the past.

September 8, 2013 2:09 pm

Willis, Ambleside is very picturesque, but expensive to stay. Good eating though. Keswick on the north side of the lakes is probably where you will find reasonably priced accommodation in the form of Bed and Breakfast (B&B). Keswick is good for getting south down into Borrowdale.
For me the best lake in the Lake District is Wast Water. The view of the screes is amazing. It is the deepest lake in the area and is the back of the highest mountain Scafell Pike as well as a beautiful view of Great Gable, scene of some the earliest rock climbing in the UK. At the top of Wast water is the Wasdale Head Inn, fantastic meals and a famous pub with a climbing history.
Its a view you will never forget.

cdc
September 8, 2013 2:09 pm

Welcome to Europe (and YES, UK is part of Europe, willy-nilly).
If you happen to come by Brussels (“If it’s Tuesday it must be Belgium”) don’t hesitate to call me, I will provide good shelter and fine food!
BTW, do you (and Anthony) ever sleep?
Pip-pip and cheers to you!

Nigel S
September 8, 2013 2:20 pm

richardscourtney says: September 8, 2013 at 10:24 am
Pocahontas died at Gravesend, London on 21 March 1617 and is buried at St Georges Church in Gravesend.
http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=821

Dave
September 8, 2013 2:31 pm

Hey, Willis,
I think you said you’re coming back down the East side of England. Make sure you leave enough time for the North Norfolk coast, all the way around to the Broads, on your way.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norfolk_Coast_AONB
The whole place is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – for once a well-named bit of bureaucracy – as well as having several unique or very rare ecosystems like the salt marshes. Truly stunning beaches, too – the one at Holkham has a real claim to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the country.
http://www.holkham.co.uk/html/beach.html
The Norfolk Broads are of course world-famous, and it’s interesting to see how the different design imperatives led to very different looking watercraft – the Norfolk wherry.
Aside from the natural attractions, there’s also plenty of history and so-on – in the Middle Ages Norfolk was one of the richest places in the world, thanks to the wool trade – and amongst other things a working steam railway…

September 8, 2013 3:11 pm

Please don’t tell me that you didn’t go see Brunel’s iron-hulled ship SS Great Britain in dry dock in Bristol? Launched in 1843, screw driven and did the transatlantic run in just 14 days! 322 ft long.
If you missed it… get back there at once!

London247
September 8, 2013 3:14 pm

richardscourtney
Thanks for that little gem. Had always intigued me driving along the A30.
P.S Wiilis having spent some time here you may now understand the British obsession with weather. Any climate model for the UK is flawed when we can quite easily provide four seasons in a day. If it extends for more than three days then people will say then have known nothing like it in their lifetimes. Three weeks ago we had a fortnight of sunshine having forgotten that at the beginning of June most houses still had their central heating on :-). It is a bit like cricket. Nothing happens for much of the time( grey skies with intermittent showers) then a sudden change to drought or flood or snowfall. ( bit like a quick six to the boundary) and then back to tedium. it is the British character.

Annie
September 8, 2013 3:17 pm

There’s a ‘Lakeland’ in Cockermouth too. More importantly, there is Wordsworth House. Cockermouth was badly flooded not so long ago and the recovery and spirit of the people there are quite remarkable. The Northern Lakes are beautiful and we love Buttermere and Crummock Water.
I am enjoying reading about your tour of my country Willis and I’m learning new things about it through you blog! As you say, you need never stop learning.

Bill Parsons
September 8, 2013 3:29 pm

The Roman baths are still there… I learned about “curse tablets”… thin sheets of lead with a curse on someone…rolled up and…thrown into the bath… a curse on whoever it was who stole someone’s clothes or shoes when they were in the bath a couple thousand years ago

Perhaps cursing the last soldier out for leaving that terrible ring.
[Sorry – I am enjoying your travelogue]

Logo
September 8, 2013 3:31 pm

Can anyone tell me the whereabouts of an ingenious device which was used to lift barges from the River Severn in water-filled tubs up to a canal about 200 feet up a hill? They were rebuilding it when I visited in 2005? There was a tourist village nearby, I recall, where you had to purchase original pennies to spend in the shops.

Annie
September 8, 2013 3:48 pm

I hesitate to publicise this, but the best restaurant I’ve been to in all my quite long life is just near Keswick in the Lake District. It is called The Lyzzick Hall Hotel and is described as ‘Under Skiddaw’. It is on the north side of the A66 right near Keswick and is really under Skiddaw. It’s marvellous in every way I can think of and I’m looking forward very much to my next visit.

RoHa
September 8, 2013 6:36 pm

@Willis Eschenbach
“Since this path was neither cold, damp, muddy, nor smelly, it would seem you haven’t walked a path like the one I describe … you should try it some time.”
Unique among English country paths, then. I certainly haven’t walked along it.

AJB
September 8, 2013 7:19 pm

Willis, something you might enjoy musing over while visiting the Lakes:
http://www.sciencemag.org/content/300/5625/1510.full.pdf

George Lawson
September 9, 2013 1:12 am

Nice to see a picture of your daughter; how about a picture with you on it so we know who the narrator is!