Guest Post by Willis Eschenbach
All day long we’ve been driving in Montana, which is cowboy country and mining country. To assist folks in distinguishing these from say the Midwest kind of country which also may have horses and cows, here are some distinguishing marks and features of cowboy country. You know you’re in cowboy country when you see:
• Cattleguards at the freeway entrances. Now, I grew up on a cattle ranch, and just about every rancher had a cattleguard at the main ranch entrance. It’s made of steel or wood beams with gaps in between them so that people or cars can pass over, but cattle can’t.
However, until today I’ve never in my life seen a cattleguard at a freeway entrance … must be cowboy country. However, the best guide to whether it’s cowboy country or not are the want ads … here were some clues from today’s local newspaper:
• The first three sections in the want ad of the local paper are “Horses”, “Livestock”, and “Pets”. Don’t want to waste time going through ads for furniture to get to the good stuff, I guess.
• The largest section in the want ads is “Farm and Ranch Equipment” … followed closely by “Guns”.
• The first two ads in the “Miscellaneous For Sale” section of the local paper are for sausage stuffing machines … definitely cowboy country.
• There are advertisements like “LIFE SIZE Tom Mountain Lion Mounted on a Rock $550”.
• The “Homes For Sale” section of the want ads includes trailers.
• You can be sure that you’re in cowboy country when the “Antiques” section of your newspaper offers you the unparalleled opportunity to buy an “Antique Manure Spreader, Built Early 1900”, for only $800 …
• And the final clue that we’re in cowboy country? The fact that the day after the finals of the FIFA World Soccer Cup, there was no mention of soccer in the paper anywhere … quite refreshing, actually.
How about signs that it’s mining country? Well, big holes in the ground in the middle of cities are kind of a clue … here’s a giant open-pit mine in the city of Butte, Montana, which sprung up on the place called the “Richest Hill In The World” because of the precious metals taken out of it …
The next clue was the name of the biggest bank building in town …
Then you have the fact that about one bar in three in Butte is an Irish pub … given the number of early miners who were from Ireland, I suppose that’s no surprise.
Finally, I learned that you can tell a mining town from other towns by their preferred choice of anaesthetics …
Today was another day when the emergent phenomena controlled the temperature. It was clear in the morning. Then when it got hot, we got cumulus clouds to reflect much of the solar energy back to outer space. And finally, as the earth heated even more, we got a whole complex of thunderstorms, with cold rain and winds that knocked the temperature right back down again.
We’re in Missoula, Montana tonight. Tomorrow, we roll north to Flathead Lake, and the next day to Whitefish to see David Raitt and the Baja Boogie Band …
My best to all of you, dear friends, and my sincere hope that your lives are as full of antique manure spreaders and Overland Rye Whiskey as is mine,
w.
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Around 1920, the Mount Morgan gold/copper mine in Australia had the reputation for the world’s biggest gold mine. This is a credible claim. We operated the mine and several others in the 1970-1990 period and I often read the past Annual Reports held in the Directors’ Quarters, during evenings of visits.
The mine operated for about 100 years.
Of those who became wealthy shareholders, there was William Knox D’Arcy who went on to find oil in Persia and caused the origin of British Petroleum; and Walter & Eliza Hall, whose name now accompanies one of the more highly regarded of the world’s medical research institutes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Knox_D%27Arcy
http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/hall-walter-russell-454
……………
We miners prefer to have people realise that the benefits of national income enhancement using new wealth such as minerals can often outweigh the admitted (but usually tiny) damage caused by mining. In simple words, taken overall, the benefits far, far exceed the detriment to society.
Willis, the city of Silver Star, an hour plus west of Bozeman, has a one man museum of mining equipment (and a lot of other interesting junk like a dredge from the Panama Canal) that will interest anyone with an appreciation of machinery. LLoyd owns and runs the place, in his 80’s.
There is something special about that part of the country and the people who call it home.
Love Montana
Great Falls is about 6 hours south of Calgary
We have been down to Helena too which is also beautiful.
If you have the chance come north to Glacier National / Waterton National parks which straddle the border between Montana and Alberta
Beautiful Country
Heading east?
Make sure you keep count of the number of signs you see for “Wall Drug”
(^_^)
One of my favorite Good ol’ Boy songs eva:
Grew up on a cattle ranch,huh? Maybe you know why the women are always the ones that want to put the bands on the bull calves?
Anaconda deveoped a mine in Chile even bigger than the Butte operation. However Chile nationalized this mine in about 1970. This really was the beginning of the end for Anaconda which no longer exists.
Francisco D’Anconia, anyone?
I was doing some research on Farmall F-12 tractors, (my brother is restoring a 1938 steel wheel) i found a video of 85’yr old James Gall of Reserve, KS. who owns the oldest known F-12 one of 25 pre-production test models. He has 117 antique rare tractors, also a large collection of plows and manure spreaders, that one is definitely an oldie.
Great road story Willis. Is there anything better than road trippin’?
Got pulled over for speeding outside Butte a few years back. The officer had never heard of “Manitoba”, bless his heart.
His cruiser also had a distinctive bovine air about it. He had to haul a calf in the back of his car previous to pulling me over. Gotta love the rural living.
He told me he had been waiting for me all morning. I said I got there as fast as I could.
Once he stopped laughing, he let me off with a warning.
Truthseeker says:
July 15, 2014 at 6:21 pm
Indeed there are fences, both at the entrances and all along the sides of the freeways.
w.
@ur momisugly David Ball, I’m Albertan now but from Saskatchewan, try getting almost any American to say it let alone spell it. Way too funny, most think you are from some obscure east European country in the mountains near Rendoosia or Grimzimistan. Then there’s also the wield pause when you say you are from Regina. Lol
Not sure if it is still the case but back in my college years speeding tickets in Montana were $5 for “wasting natural resources”.
Idaho has cattle guards at most freeway entrances although instead of metal they are usually parallel painted white lines about 6 inches wide spaced 6 inch apart spanning across the road. Cattle will balk at crossing the lines.
Re Willis Eschenbach says: July 15, 2014 at 9:33 pm
Re Truthseeker says: July 15, 2014 at 6:21 pm
Cattle guards (or not) might depend on whether the area through which the freeway passes is defined as open range or closed range. For example, here is an excerpt from Oregon regulations:
http://www.oregon.gov/ODA/AHID/pages/livestock_id/openclosed_range.aspx
Loose livestock
Question: Somebody´s livestock is running loose on my property. What can I do about it?
Answer: A lot depends on whether your property is in an Open Range area or a Livestock District. (See definitions below.
If you´re in an open range area and don´t want other people´s livestock on your property, you must build adequate fences or have natural barriers to keep livestock out.
If you´re in a livestock district, the animal owner is required to keep the animals on their property.
[end excerpt]
My understanding is that if the area is closed range and you hit the cow, it’s the cow’s owner’s fault. In open range, if you hit the cow, you just bought the cow, but you can’t keep it.
Missoula is also the home of Mountain Press Publishing Company, publisher of the Roadside Geology series including R. G. of the Yellowstone Country. These highly recommended booklets are great if you want to understand the geological history of common roads through various states and a few specific areas. I made sure to visit all the less common geothermal areas mentioned in the book when I went to Yellowstone a few years back.
I grew up a few miles from the Burlingame Gulch (near where the Walla Walla river empties into the Columbia) which shows the many mud layers of the Missoula ice age floods. We called it the “Little Grand Canyon” and I even hiked into it once with a friend, but didn’t understand what caused it until many years later. I find it amazing they never did a field trip in school or even talked about such things in science class.
The man who discovered the ice age floods, J. Harlen Bretz, was trained in Geology with a PhD but was teaching high school in Seattle when he started to study Eastern Washington and the areas beyond. He came to the conclusion that about 14,000 years ago, a glacial dam would back up water 950 feet deep over the present town of Missoula and then break lose sending a wall of water across Washington and into the Columbia. When it hit Portland it was restricted and would flood all the way up the Willamette Valley to Eugene where I live now. It did this over and over about every 55 years for about 2000 years.
When he first proposed this at The Geological Society of Washington D. C. meeting in 1927, the Eastern geologists laughed at him and told him it could never have happened. There was a bias in geology then that all processes that formed landscapes had to be slow, gradually wearing the mountains into sand on the beach. For a cataclysm of biblical proportions to present itself was considered a great heresy at the time. Only time was on Bretz’s side and he finally won the argument, although it took 50 years and Bretz was 90 when his ideas were finally accepted.
Does any of this sound familiar?
Willis, hope you have a few cold ones at the Bulldog in Whitefish. I spent some time there while installing robots at Columbia Falls near by.
Montana rural folks like to “control” their own. You will signs to that effect on properties as you drive through rural Montana.
It is a statement of independence, derision of federal gun control, and generally an expression to control one’s life free of the federal government interference.
Al Gore, Joe Biden, and Barack Obama are not too popular with the Montana folks who display “I control my own” signs.
P.S. the Montana road-side farmer’s cherry stands are not to be missed.
That’s why they call it big sky country.
Thanks Willis.
I’ve seen horses and bird-dogs navigate cattle guards. I’ve seen cattle guards painted on asphalt with white paint.
There is usually a fence associated with these things, but also there is a passage way on one side (with a gate) to allow cattle and the horses to pass as needed. Like so:
http://ontwolanes.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/cattle_guard.jpg?w=640&h=478
–———————————–
Ric Werme says:
July 15, 2014 at 8:00 pm
“. . . creating the scablands of eastern Washington and scouring out the Columbia River Valley.”
The Columbia River pre-dates the floods and the Valley ended up being a depository for much of the soil and rock removed from the landscape to the east. What didn’t stay went on to the Pacific Ocean.
An Introduction to the Ice Age Floods
http://www.iafi.org/
In the Kimberley Region of Western Australia, station country, we have an occasional cattle grid across Highway 1, with adjoining fences long gone. Fences are gradually being built along the highway to try and prevent the many casualties each year from cars hitting livestock. I have had many close shaves at night, but lots of travelers have been less fortunate.
Truthseeker is worried about the lack of fences. I’m still waiting for Mel Brooks to explain “the boom gate in the desert” scene from the movie Blazing Saddles. And i thought that was an original idea.
If you are interested in the history of Montana’s “Richest Hill on Earth” (also touted as “A mile high and a mile deep”), there is a wonderful book first published in 1935, when many of those who knew what happened were still living. Check out _The War of the Copper Kings_, by C.B. Glasscock. It reads like a novel, but it’s all real. It’s still in print and available from Amazon and other fine booksellers.
In Utah, where the cattle guards are also painted on the road, you must say “Vrump…vrump” when passing over there.
I also had a horse who refused to cross the painted lines at stop signs and traffic lights during parades…practically had to dismount and drag him across.
Oops, there = them
Hi Willis, I shamelessly linked to one of your articles (Parrot fish as national birds) here, http://www.nzherald.co.nz/opinion/news/article.cfm?c_id=466&objectid=11293566
The comments are what I expected. Gandalf is the resident RC troll, along with Forward Thinker. Sam Judd tries at times to be reasonable, but the catastrophic alarmism always creeps in.
Enjoy your holiday, I was through Big Sky country years ago, mind blowing is my main impression still.
Missoula feels like a port city like Duluth, at the edge of a great lake…. Which it once was, in fact, before ancient Lake Missoula scoured out the Columbia scablands of eastern Washington, after the last ice age http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacial_Lake_Missoula
Willis, all of the signposts you write about the West are true, valid and authentic. Like Ric Werme, I also hiked up the “M” to the East of the University of Montana campus, but this month in 1997, auditioning the history department for my prospective application for the master’s there.
What you’ve perhaps missed are the clankity-clank-clank of all the one-armed bandits of Montana in public places like bars – small stakes gambling is a revenue stream for Montana state government. (Or has this changed since I last visited.) And the unfinished floors of the bars.
Back in the 1990s, the ‘over 21 only’ drinking age was only casually enforced. I recall giving rides home for a few falling down drunk coeds, and when the police noticed our antics, they never asked to see our IDs.
If you go to Glacier NP, do spend time at on the shores of Lake McDonald – the atmosphere of the Northern Rockies definitely starts around there. It reminds me of the Great North Woods around the Great Lakes – Lake McDonald is the only place in the Rockies where I’ve experienced the feel that Eastern forest land.
From your cattleguard story I can tell that you have never been to the Alps, either…. Where there is one at about every turn of the road in many places…