Guest Post by Willis Eschenbach. WARNING: This post contains no scientific content of any kind, just a story of our travels.
So we made it to London, a place that up ’til now I’ve only known through family stories, and books and song lyrics, viz:
Your old man took her diamonds and tiaras by the score
Now she gets her kicks in Stepney, not in Knightsbridge any more.
The Rolling Stones
So it’s great fun to actually see some of the places I’d only heard of. We’re staying in New Cross, south of Stepney. It’s great, kind of a low-budget district, lots of Africans live here so it feels down home. Today, we walked to the London downtown area along the Thames, here’s a 180° panorama I took looking both ways along the river.
(Click any photo to embiggen.)
It was kind of sad to see the river, thought, because what in my mind was still a huge artery of global commerce with wharves on both sides now has very little traffic, and that mostly tour boats. My great-grandfather sailed the world from England, so the Thames was his main highway, filled with adventurers, freebooters, slavers, whalers, scurve-dogs, freighters, pirates, and both high- and low-budget swabbies of all kinds … all gone now, but it’s still a lovely river.
From there, we walked along the river to the Tower Bridge:
Dang … if that kind of crazy skyline doesn’t inspire a man, nothing will. We crossed the river, and walked around the Tower of London, which isn’t a tower at all, false advertising if you ask me. From there, we wandered over to see Big Ben. Now that sucker should be called the Tower of London by my lights, I hadn’t realized it was so … well, in a word, “big” …
Then on to the Westminster Cathedral, home of the royal nuptials, lovely stone filigree, stained glass, and such.
From there we went and spent an absolutely delightful afternoon at the British Museum, looking at, well, everything that British explorers managed to plunder over the last five centuries or so, which adds up to a big pile of impressive loot. It was one of the most well-organized and pleasant museums I’ve been in.
Now, I like to ask people what surprised them the most about their travels. Some years ago a friend of mine from the Solomon Islands went to London for the first time. When she got back, I asked what had surprised her the most … she said “They have white people sweeping the streets!”
In any case, for me, the surprises so far have been:
1. The juxtaposition of the old and the new. Along the riverside, I saw new concrete poured around exposed stonework that was likely there 400 years ago.
2. Raw antiquity. The publican said “this is a fairly new pub, built in the late 1700’s” … the oldest building in Sonoma County (where I live in California) is from about 1870, and because of that it’s a state historical monument. Here, it would be considered a new building.
3. People of unexpected colors and appearances speaking English, not with the accent of their home countries, but with a broad British accent.
4. The British Museum actually thinks that there were people who were native to the Americas, they call them “Native Americans”. I guess the Brits didn’t get the news … as far as anyone knows, not a one of them is native to the Americas, they were all early Asian immigrants.
5. The Brits do love their bricks. Yellow brick, red brick, brown and black bricks, if the anti-neutron bomb made every brick in London vanish, there wouldn’t be one building left.
6. The occasional need for an “English-to-English” translation app for my iPhone … as GBS remarked, two countries separated by a common language.
7. According to the statuary in the British Museum, most of the Romans had tertiary syphilis that destroyed their noses, as you can see in this photo I took today:
So that’s the new news from the Old Countries including Rome …
Tomorrow I have to good fortune of a lunch meeting with Benny Peiser of the Global Warming Policy Foundation. We’re here in London through Thursday, then off to Stonhenge, then Bath, then ???.
The other good news is that I got a UK sim card for my phone, so for the duration of our UK travels you can reach me at 074 4838 1774.
My best to all, thanks for everyone’s comments, keep the travel suggestions coming.
w.
Hi Willis, glad you’re enjoying London, from the number of responses from Brits all over the country I’d suggest that before you come next time see if any of us can put you up and show you round our local sights.
More pedantry I’m afraid, I don’t know how old your great granddad was when he died but it is unlikely he saw any slavers on the Thames because the Britain abolished the Slave Trade in 1807. in any event, and this is the reason for my pedantry, as it was effectively an Atlantic trade, the two ports most associated with the slave trade were Bristol and Liverpool. You should visit Liverpool it’s the only city I’ve ever been to where the council puts pianos in the streets for passers by to play, and it is second only to London in the number of listed buildings. And the music up there is as good as it ever was.
And whilst down Stonehenge way, should you get a chance to go to Wells, the cathedral there is superb, with an extraordinary clock, and an extraordinary “inverted” arch.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wells_Cathedral_clock
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggT6Eon6OV0 (The clock in action)
http://needleprint.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/scissor-arches-at-wells-cathedral.html
In fact – you need to extend your stay!
Well, I finally got internet service again. I see that London is no different than anywhere else … technology is fallible. It’s been out here at the flat for the last day and a half so I haven’t posted anything … I’ll likely put up something later. Five PM here, we’re out of London tomorrow, which is far too soon for me, but the whole trip is too short in my opinion …
w.
geronimo says:
September 5, 2013 at 3:54 am
The hospitality from all has been overwhelming.
Thanks, geronimo. Although the slave trade was abolished in 1807, that didn’t end the slave trade. Between 1807 and 1860, the British West Africa squadron seized about 1,600 ships that were engaged in the slave trade … and that was only a fraction of the ships involved. According at least to oral family history, one of the slave ships that were not captured was run by my great-great grandfather’s uncle. After his brother’s death in a shipwreck, the uncle took my great-great grandfather (and his tutor) to live with him on his ship, and he lived there until he became an adult.
However, as you point out, most of the trade (legal and otherwise) was conducted out of Liverpool and Bristol … which are most certainly stops on our route.
w.
Crikey !! You are a popular guy Willis ! Much read I am sure.
I guess you will see why we Brits may be envied across the globe – H I S T O R Y !! and lots of it recorded.
I lived in Lansdown Crescent Bath UK for nigh on 9 years, enjoyed every minute, you tingle a little at the facade…
Would have suggested Bristol docks / Harbourside 11 miles from Bath as a ‘must see’ given the minimal distance involved.
SS GB, the Matthew, Cabot tower (John Cabot), Floating (as in 24hr water depth) harbour, Clifton Suspension bridge mired in Isambard Brunel and others all ‘shipshape and Bristol fashion’ !
At the mouth of the river Avon joining the river Severn (Avonmouth / Portbury Docks) about 7 miles down river from Harbourside the tide range is around 40 ft, 2nd only, I gather, to the Bay of Funday – hence how Bristol docks evolved – sailing ships could float in on the rising tide and out in a similar manner on the ebb.
The Bristol channel looks a ‘no brainer’ for a tidal barrage – BUT silt is/would be a major problem, notso much to the equipment but to the small seaside / one time coastal ports along the shoreline and wildlife.
Oh, also lived 1st 18 yrs overlooking the Bristol Channel from 14 miles distance – lucky buoy !
You see? We, in the West Country could go on and on and on…. Glastonbury, Wells, Cheddar gorge – Not just ‘places’ but places where our ancestors laid their trails…
Blimey, I have looked out on Solsbury hill for 20 yrs !! Peter Gabriel mentioned it (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fF8wU4Nl9Y)
You just cannot move for it all !!
Have a good ‘un – How could you fail.
Some little green islands which punched far above their weight across the globe, did some bad, did some good, but really ‘did some’ !
Pip
TimC says:
September 5, 2013 at 3:46 am
I haven’t interacted with a single policeman or policewoman (policeperson?) since coming to this lovely country … and I would be quite happy if it stayed just like that.
Regards,
w.
TimC, whether Christopher Monckton is a member of the House of Lords is no big issue with me.
However, the case you cited was as follows:
However, I’m not sure that your interpretation of the outcome is correct. See the opinion of the Baron’s Counsel here, whose conclusion is totally opposite to yours (emphasis mine):
My point is simple. Despite your claims, the dispute is far from settled. It will be settled eventually, but in the courts, not on the blogs. Lord Moncton obviously believes what he says, and you know what?
At the end of the day Christopher may be right … or he may be wrong. And since this is not the end of the day yet, debating it here seems like an exercise in pointlessness.
All the best,
w.
@James Baldwin at 48: The Confessions of a Driving Instructor came and went before my family even had a TV, but I have seen the stunt you describe performed in real live on I-285 near Atlanta. In fact, I even participated in it, as I happened to be in the middle of a crowd that decided it had had enough of idle standing and rushed to make its way out up the nearby entrance ramp, pushing everybody still intending to enter back into the street-level traffic.
I reckon, that kind of stuff can only be seen in a TV farce in this country. If you get stuck on M5 among Londoners returning home from Cornwall on a Sunday afternoon, you simply stay put, however long it takes. There is no point in looking for a alternatives, for if there are any, they are only worse.
Lest I forget, let’s add a couple useful words to the Anglo-American dictionary kindly offered above. Your use of the word “ramp” was the first in a long time that wasn’t counter-intuitive; I noticed, the Highway Authority does not use it in this sense.
So, Willis, when you see a road sign referring to a “slip road”, look for a ramp. When you see “ramp”, look for a bump.
jeremyp99 says:
September 4, 2013 at 2:23 pm
Jeremy, many thanks for the invitation. I fear we’re rolling north from Bath, and I hate to retrace my steps, an old rule of mine. But it is much appreciated, and other than that we would have gladly accepted.
w.
Correct, a motorway has slip roads. Good catch.
Willis – thanks for this.
I recognise that this is a very sensitive issue to the parties (Lords Monckton and Mereworth): it’s all about whether they can properly say that they are (still) members of the UK legislature (the UK equivalent to the US Senate of course). However, in overall terms the House of Commons (democratically elected and with primacy under our system – it can overrule the Lords on most questions after some delay) has spoken clearly and with cross-party consensus: the day of hereditary peers having a veto over UK legislation in the 21st century, is now over. Only a limited number of hereditary peers (90 at present, for life – not a majority) can sit and vote in the Lords; the overwhelming majority of the upper House are now life peers (mostly politically appointed) plus a number of clerical bods (Bishops mostly).
Whatever the transitional situation may be today, the democratic consensus will ultimately prevail: a limited, fixed number of hereditary peers (probably again, politically appointed) will sit in the House for life with the rest (the majority) being life peers or bishops. I’m afraid the UK is unlikely to accept again that a group of worthies in the legislative upper house can block legislation just because their respective ancestors long ago caught the eye of the then monarch – rightly so in my view. My point is that their Lordships M & M are IMHO fighting a losing battle here, whatever the transitional position may be today. If they wish to sit in the upper House they must now catch the eye of the Prime Minister of the day who has the ability (through patronage) to select them – but not their descendants unless selected afresh – for life to sit and vote in the upper House.
On Harriet Gore’s contentions the immortal words of Mandy Rice-Davies come to mind – “well [she] would say that, wouldn’t [she]”. She is an advocate still fighting her case…
The actual judgment is at:
http://cases.iclr.co.uk/Subscr/search.aspx?path=WLR%20Dailies/WLRD%202011/wlrd2011-217
As you will see, the judicial findings were (a) “The Court did not have jurisdiction to decide whether a hereditary peer was entitled to a writ of summons thereby entitling him to sit and vote in the House of Lords. That question fell within the exclusive cognisance of Parliament and was a matter for the Committee for Privileges” and (b) “reference to “a member of the House of Lords” was … a reference to the right to sit and vote in that House”. This has not been appealed (so far as I am aware) so is a (persuasive) judicial precedent in the UK – and it’s mainly about separation of powers of course (legislature and judiciary).
And it was in fact common ground in open court that “In 1926 the Barony of Mereworth was created by Letters Patent conferring upon the first Lord Mereworth and the heirs male of his body, lawfully begotten a seat, place and voice in Parliament’s public assembly and councils of the Crown in the United Kingdom. The claimant succeeded to the title in 2002” – with no suggestion that the Letters Patent had ceased to confer the hereditary peerage on Lord Mereworth “and the heirs male of his body, lawfully begotten”. So yes, Lord Mereworth can hope to live to fight on another day – but (following the 1999 Act and this decision, and as above) I think he will find it hard to persuade Parliament (having sole governance, under the judgement) that the noble Lord’s “heirs male of his body, lawfully begotten” (of all degrees) should generally have the right to “a seat, place and voice in Parliament’s public assembly”, in the 21st century. And we know what the Clerk to the Parliament’s position is of course.
I entirely agree that their Lordships M & M “may be right … or may be wrong. And since this is not the end of the day yet, debating it here seems like an exercise in pointlessness.” However, if either of their lordships (or anyone else) flatly asserts in these pages that their views are correct I am afraid they might have to put up with an alternative view from me, until the sun indeed sets at the end of the day.
And now: what about your holiday?? Your good ladies will soon deservedly call in the UK coppers if you don’t get away from blogging for a while …!
Thank you so much TimC for spoiling this thread with a topic that is far removed from the content.
Normally i make very few comments on this blog, I read it daily because its ‘good”. But to you and anyone else that wishes to discuss the Lords status in this thread , can please ask you STFU and take elsewhere.
TimC – Hereditary rights of power are worth fighting against.
Even my father (guess from the name) would probably agree with that.
But this is about the right to be called “A Member of the House of Lords” or words to that effect.
That is semantics. Who cares?
Answer – Only those who are looking too closely or those who are playing silly games for political reasons.
Now, I think you are looking too close. Because if you were spinning you wouldn’t bother this far down the thread and would have also slurred Lord Monckton in other ways as well – which you have not.
So, please consider ceasing to disturb the Eschenbach holiday with this issue.
And look at where best to fire your powder (join me at the Guardian).
Whether or not the noble Lord is a member of the H of L – and I believe he is – the fact is that he is a noble man – which our resident trolls certainly are not. Get a life guys and do something useful eh, rather than boring the tits off us all.
A little about the British ‘Tweakers’.
From 2/3 down the first page.
‘…One of the great puzzles of the industrial revolution is why it began in England. Why not France, or Germany?…’
‘…A long time ago when we was fab…’
http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2011/11/14/111114fa_fact_gladwell?currentPage=1
Pip
Willis Eschenbach says:
September 5, 2013 at 11:44 am
Jeremy, many thanks for the invitation. I fear we’re rolling north from Bath, and I hate to retrace my steps, an old rule of mine. But it is much appreciated, and other than that we would have gladly accepted.
==============================================================
No worries – I’m glad you are having an engrossing time on our engrossing island, and hope you come back soon. I always tell my American friends that if they come over here, sooner or later they really really need to do
Cornwall (especially West Penwith, the bit at the end, which is not only gorgeous but littered with barrows, mounds, standing stones, you name it
and the Western Isles
and Ireland – which is utterly gorgeous, and (ignoring the tedious and everlasting hoo hahs in Northern Ireland), is perhaps the last civilised country in Europe. And you have not drunk Guiness until you have drunk it there – tho’ do try to find a pub where they don’t espouse the chilling of Guinness, to my mind an act of sacrilege. West Cork, the South West (Ring of Kerry) and the West Coast are spectacular. As is the hospitality.
More on the Walkie-Talkie Building in Central London.
The one that has a concaved dish-like surface that faces south.
It focuses the suns rays from a big building into small spot on the next block. It has melted and burned cars parked in the street.
I heard it call today a — fryscraper