Guest Post by Willis Eschenbach. WARNING: This post contains no scientific content of any kind, just a story of our travels.
So we made it to London, a place that up ’til now I’ve only known through family stories, and books and song lyrics, viz:
Your old man took her diamonds and tiaras by the score
Now she gets her kicks in Stepney, not in Knightsbridge any more.
The Rolling Stones
So it’s great fun to actually see some of the places I’d only heard of. We’re staying in New Cross, south of Stepney. It’s great, kind of a low-budget district, lots of Africans live here so it feels down home. Today, we walked to the London downtown area along the Thames, here’s a 180° panorama I took looking both ways along the river.
(Click any photo to embiggen.)
It was kind of sad to see the river, thought, because what in my mind was still a huge artery of global commerce with wharves on both sides now has very little traffic, and that mostly tour boats. My great-grandfather sailed the world from England, so the Thames was his main highway, filled with adventurers, freebooters, slavers, whalers, scurve-dogs, freighters, pirates, and both high- and low-budget swabbies of all kinds … all gone now, but it’s still a lovely river.
From there, we walked along the river to the Tower Bridge:
Dang … if that kind of crazy skyline doesn’t inspire a man, nothing will. We crossed the river, and walked around the Tower of London, which isn’t a tower at all, false advertising if you ask me. From there, we wandered over to see Big Ben. Now that sucker should be called the Tower of London by my lights, I hadn’t realized it was so … well, in a word, “big” …
Then on to the Westminster Cathedral, home of the royal nuptials, lovely stone filigree, stained glass, and such.
From there we went and spent an absolutely delightful afternoon at the British Museum, looking at, well, everything that British explorers managed to plunder over the last five centuries or so, which adds up to a big pile of impressive loot. It was one of the most well-organized and pleasant museums I’ve been in.
Now, I like to ask people what surprised them the most about their travels. Some years ago a friend of mine from the Solomon Islands went to London for the first time. When she got back, I asked what had surprised her the most … she said “They have white people sweeping the streets!”
In any case, for me, the surprises so far have been:
1. The juxtaposition of the old and the new. Along the riverside, I saw new concrete poured around exposed stonework that was likely there 400 years ago.
2. Raw antiquity. The publican said “this is a fairly new pub, built in the late 1700’s” … the oldest building in Sonoma County (where I live in California) is from about 1870, and because of that it’s a state historical monument. Here, it would be considered a new building.
3. People of unexpected colors and appearances speaking English, not with the accent of their home countries, but with a broad British accent.
4. The British Museum actually thinks that there were people who were native to the Americas, they call them “Native Americans”. I guess the Brits didn’t get the news … as far as anyone knows, not a one of them is native to the Americas, they were all early Asian immigrants.
5. The Brits do love their bricks. Yellow brick, red brick, brown and black bricks, if the anti-neutron bomb made every brick in London vanish, there wouldn’t be one building left.
6. The occasional need for an “English-to-English” translation app for my iPhone … as GBS remarked, two countries separated by a common language.
7. According to the statuary in the British Museum, most of the Romans had tertiary syphilis that destroyed their noses, as you can see in this photo I took today:
So that’s the new news from the Old Countries including Rome …
Tomorrow I have to good fortune of a lunch meeting with Benny Peiser of the Global Warming Policy Foundation. We’re here in London through Thursday, then off to Stonhenge, then Bath, then ???.
The other good news is that I got a UK sim card for my phone, so for the duration of our UK travels you can reach me at 074 4838 1774.
My best to all, thanks for everyone’s comments, keep the travel suggestions coming.
w.
byz says:
September 3, 2013 at 11:58 pm
“Lectures”? Jeez, miss the point much?
In any case, if you don’t like my writing, then just go find something you do like. Sticking around just so you can winge and wimper about my writing just makes you look childish.
w.
Very few tourists go, but for industrial heritage and shear scale of engineering its worth a visit and check out the specific times when it runs….
http://www.simt.co.uk/kelham-island-museum/river-don-engine
It is now the most powerful working steam engine remaining in Europe, and you can see it “in steam” at the Museum:
Plus in the Fat Cat pub next the beer is brewed next door to the pub and its one of the finest in england….
Grumpy Old Man says:
September 4, 2013 at 12:20 am
Thanks, Grumpy … but then we weren’t talking science, we were talking song lyrics.
w/.
“Sorry” Davidg, but according to lyrics.com what Willis was “just sayin” is correct. (as usual)
http://www.lyrics.com/play-with-fire-lyrics-the-rolling-stones.html
They say it’s Stepney and Knightsbridge.
Willis:
Please stop spending your time on us.
Your ladies need their holiday, so please take them somewhere.
Richard
Although something of a pedant myself – see my comment re Willis’ view of the Tower of London not being a tower – and perhaps therefore an irritant to Willis’ combative temperament, I have to agree completely with him that there is probably no-one in Britain who calls Big Ben ‘the Elizabeth Tower’ (or maybe at least 97% of people don’t anyway) .
25 minutes after you took your picture, I was in Parliament square too. I should have waved. Have a great trip to England Willis.
Steve
Willis, JUST IN CASE you have leftover time/inclination, I’m your fan and a yank who has lived in London for 25 years. Also a science documentary filmmaker (BBC, History, Discovery, Smithsonian…) fascinated/furious about the whole AGW phenom. I and a friend are just about the only science documentarians in town who are ‘on side’ as they say here; we’d love to buy you a drink and get brainstorming about a film to support the righteous cause. I’m at +44 7968 694 348 and will attempt to text this note to you if I can locate that number you posted somewhere up there… Meanwhile I’m yours, admiringly, John Dunton-Downer
embiggen??? do you mean enlarge?
Missed the Natural History Museum in South Kensington then, pitty because it is very good and about natural science.
Bath next so not that far from God’s own county.
Like several others above, I would simply pause briefly at Stonehenge for a quick picture and take the time to stop at Avebury, which I also agree is more impressive. At Stonehenge you are very close to Salisbury, which is a beautiful modern city – ie it was laid out and built in the Medieval Period. Salisbury Cathedral is magnificent, as was noted by others above, and construction started in 1220 AD. About 8 miles to the south of Salisbury at the village of Breamore (pronounced locally as “bremmer”) there is a pre-NormalnChurch dated as 980 AD.
If you want beautiful buildings in London, my vote would be for the Natural History Museum. And the content is fantastic too.
Bath is a fantastic city, as is Bristol, with its sailing history and its connections to the great engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel.
I’m a Londoner born and bred, and passionate about the city. There are so many places to see, but I would recommend two slightly offbeat ones that might appeal to you:
1. The Horniman Museum, in south London (postcode SE23 3PQ), which shows the eclectic collecting habits of us Brits. There’s anthropology, musical instruments, an aquarium etc, etc – but don’t forget the stuffed walrus!
2. Postman’s Park, a tiny park in the City of London, a short walk north of St Paul’s Cathedral, contains the most poignant memorial built by the artist, GF Watts, commemorating acts of selfless heroism by people killed while in the act of saving others.
As a Liveryman of one of the City guilds, the Worshipful Company of Spectacle Makers (the oldest optical body in the world, incorporated 1629), I’d love to show you more nooks and crannies of my town but sadly I’m out of town right now.
Here’s a poser: there’s one road in London where vehicles drive on the right. Anyone know it?
Good to see you’re adopting a British grumpy argumentative stance while you’re here to more easily fit in!
If you get as far north as Hadrian’s Wall (Carlisle to Newcastle) then Vindolanda is worth a visit. It’s one of the largest Roman camps on the wall which they’re still actively excavating. There is loads of interesting recovered stuff in the visitor’s centre.
Hi David
Far too costly to go there for a dinner, entry to the Savoy hotel on the Strand, passed it virtually 1000s of times in more than 30 years
As they say in Stepney, ‘Well done, me old china’
Hmmm, Willis used the descriptor “jerkwagon” for MikeB’s comment.
I had to look it up: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=jerkwagon
Willis, you sound like you are having a great time and hope you have an opportunity to visit other countries of the UK. I can’t think of any remotely critical comment, so any chance of a free insult? I love them and wear them with pride! Hope you are enjoying the taste of real beer.
Hi Willis. I agree that Avebury is better than Stonehenge but it’s one of those sights you have to see ….it won’t take long and it’s close to the road.
Just a thought, have you thought about Buckingham Palace? I believe the residents are away on their summer holidays at present so visitors are welcome.
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/buckinghampalace/plan-your-visit
“6. The occasional need for an “English-to-English” translation app for my iPhone … as GBS remarked, two countries separated by a common language.”
There’s the odd disconnect……Particular ones to remember.
Word UK US
Fag Cigarette A gentleman of a more sensitive disposition
Faggot A kind of offal laced meatball See above
Braces Additional support for Trousers Something to straighten the teeth
Suspenders Support for a ladies stockings Additional support for Trousers
Garters Support for a chap’s socks Support for a ladies stockings
Fanny Female Genitalia The Gluteus Maximus
Bum The Gluteus Maximus An Itenerant gentleman free of property
Tramp An itinerant gent etc A woman of doubtful (or is that certain?)
Virtue
Spunk Ejaculate Feistiness of character
Hood A head covering The engine cover for an automobile
Bonnet The engine cover for a car A head covering
Trunk An Elephant’s nose The cargo space in an automobile
Boot The cargo space in a car Footwear
Lorry A cargo vehicle Truck
Artic A Tractor Trailer Vehicle Semi
Pants Underwear Trousers
Shorts Short Trousers Underwear
Knickers Female Underwear Panties
Beer A flavoursome ale best served No US equivalent…:-)
not chilled
Lager Top brewed Pilsner Beer Beer
Best served chilled
Pint 20 fluid oz as is right and proper A short measure
Chips Deep fried chunks of potato Thin slices of fried potato
Crisps Thin slices of fried potato ????????
Fries Bad chips deep fried potato chunks
It was nicely formatted when posted , honest
Willis make sure you take in Avebury when on your way to Stonehenge, much more impressive in many ways than Stonehenge.
Cheers
RE: “Warning – if you have a large car – country lanes can be – um – rather narrow.”
Even the A roads can be interesting at times. On a 60 or 70MPH A road I’ve often wondered about the skill of the lorry driver in the opposing lane (and my own skill) as we passed at combined 140 MPH speed. I’m surprised I never witnessed a side mirror being sheered off (or worse). 🙂
In support of James at 48’s concern, I’d recommend you to spend an hour or two with a driving instructor before you hit the road on your own. First, because it can be a lot of fun, and then there are some potentially fatal problems that an American driver can work out during the first hour with an instructor. Driver education is a sprawling business in the UK, so it should be easy to find an instructor, and they are all good. I can arrange that for you, if you like.
At the very least, it will help you to have somebody local in the passenger seat to point out your errors to you. There are some differences that are not easy to grasp at the first glance.
I still miss the yellow line, even after a 100k miles driven without it.
Willis:
You say there is only one more day before you leave London for Bath.
I write to suggest an agenda for your day in Bath,
but first I mention something that may interest you before you leave London.
The basement of the Royal Institution is well worth a visit. It was a nominal entrance fee of £1 but it has been ‘done up’ in recent years so probably costs much more now. At one end is the present lab. with the researchers working behind a glass wall. At the other end is the lab. of Michael Faraday with his original lab. bench and much of his original equipment. You can see the first electric motor, the first electric transformer and much more. It is a ‘must’ for any student of the history of science.
Anyway, my suggestions for Bath.
Take your bathing costumes to Bath.
Upon arrival you cannot miss the major religion of the locals: the rugby ground is in the middle of town (rugby is a superior form of what Americans mistakenly call football but rugby is played by men so they don’t wear helmets, etc.).
Everything in Bath is within ten minutes walking distance, so if you ask “How far to … ?” you always obtain the answer, “About ten minutes”.
Despite that, first, take the open-top bus tour of the town.
(n.b. There are two open-top buses, one in town and one around town, so if you only have one day ensure you take the in-town bus).
The headphones will give you the basics of all the points of interest.
Next, go to the Roman Baths and see the sign on the railings about guided walking tours which leave from there. The guides are unpaid amateur local historians whom the Local Council has approved and appointed as knowledgeable guides.
Having decided when you need to meet for the walking tour, visit the Roman Baths and tour the underground museum.
Spend time until lunch watching street entertainers and/or fudge making in one of the two fudge shops.
Enjoy the walking tour before or after lunch (depending on the time).
Take lunch in a local café.
Walk up to the Royal Crescent.
There is much Georgian architecture in Bath. Cheltenham has more and better and much of Bath’s was destroyed by the Luftwaffe in WW2, but what remains is good. The Georgian buildings in Bath are Listed and Bath is a World Heritage Site because of them. They were ‘thrown up’ using a novel building method which made use of the Admiralty Standard Log. And they were built as the then version of ‘time share accommodation’. Their frontage is glorious but only their fronts (i.e. Queen Anne at the front and Sally Ann at the back). Note the covers on the pavements which are coal-holes to the coal stores – but are now used as cellars – of the houses. The building method was much copied in other cities, and is to be seen in many American cities but – of course – not in the Georgian style.
You have probably seen the Crescent as a back-drop in Hollywood films. A house at one end has been restored to be as it was in Georgian times. This is a ‘must see’ and – in my opinion – is better than the Roman Baths. Wander around inside and question the guides who are in each room. Don’t miss the kitchen with its dog-operated spit.
Return to the Roman Baths and take afternoon tea in the Pump Room adjacent to the Baths. There are paintings of Beau Brummel on the walls. He was a professional gambler who invented English manners as part of his turning Bath into the greatest Spa in Georgian England.
And you can sample Bath Spa water in the tea room.
After tea you can wander about, watch street entertainers, visit one of the museums, or take a boat trip. If the weather is good I commend a boat trip from the weir. If the weather is inclement then I commend Herschel’s house which is now a museum. You can still see the hole in the floor where he dropped a telescope mirror he was polishing. However, that museum opens at odd times so you may not be able to get in.
Then I suggest attending Evensong in the Abbey Church adjacent to the Roman Baths.
Yes, I know you are an atheist, but if you want to sample English culture then traditional Anglican Evensong is the REAL THING and Bath Abbey will give you that in a Service lasting about 30 minutes. I think you will enjoy it (n.b. I am a Methodist, not an Anglican, and I attended Hindu worship when in Indonesia recently).
From there wander to the ‘new’ Spa and take the bathe and dinner deal.
Book the time for your dinner, then change in the changing rooms before exploring every floor. The ladies will love bathing in the hot spa water on the roof as night falls. Enjoy your dinner in the café while still in your bathing costumes and wrapped in your gowns.
There is more, but I don’t think you can pack in more during one day.
Enjoy.
Richard
When you leave London going West try to do so as early as possible, then the Sun will be behind you. Thursday is due to be another spectacular summer day. What a time for your first visit.
Crop Circles are another feature of southern England about which you may have heard. Most of the current formations have now been harvested. However, If you do make it to Avebury take a look in the Henge Bookshop, which is inside the actual stone circle, where you will find several well illustrated books and postcards showing these remarkable creations.
No matter whether you consider crop circles are made by people, pixies or plankers many are undeniably beautiful.
@Gene Selkov – your comments bring to mind the following amusing tangent. Namely, the camp classic “Confessions of a Driving instructor” or something to that effect vis a vis the title. One particularly humorous scene had the protagonist instructing a rather elderly lady. Somehow she managed to drive down the off ramp and thence began lane splitting against the flow on a motorway. Chaos ensued. LOL!
“All day Thursday 5th September 5 live will explore and debate the future of energy in the UK”
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01g4d88
“A day of output dedicated to the energy debate with a studio powered by renewable energy.”
Maybe 200,000 people hear it wrong but the town name is Stedley, not Stepney!!! Use your ears! Listen carefully and you will see You were wrong!!!